196 Ka Hana Kapa. 



king of Ban, father of the more famons Cakoban (Thakomban) who, like Kamehameha I, 

 nnited all the \'itian group nnder his rnle, is from Wilkes. (Fig. 115.) 



I cannot pass over the modern adaptation of the ancient dress of the Hawaiians, 

 the more that this is seldom seen in the cities of Hawaii. In the country and on the 

 smaller islands it is not uncommon. Mr. J. F. G. Stokes, Curator of Polynesian 

 Ethnology in the Bishop museum has, in a recent visit to Molokai, made the photo- 

 graphs shown in Figs. 116-118. In the first figure the brachj^cephalic head is well 

 shown, and the simple holoku which has taken the place of .the pa'u.**' In the house 

 group the transition appears, and the shirt is worn for its warmth, and when the men 

 are at work it is generally taken off. The front flap of the malo is much wider than 

 was €71 regie in the days of kapa: this is especiall}- shown in Fig. 117, where the strong 

 wind at the time increased the apparent breadth. This dress has little of the grace 

 of the older form of malo, but it is comfortable and sufficient for clothing. The men, 

 it will be noted, have taken more kindl}' to the hat than the women have to the bonnet. 



Next in importance and much greater in size come the Kapa moe or bed kapa, 

 tlic night clothes of the old Hawaiian; this has alread}' been described and some 

 additional particulars may be found in the catalogvie below. These kapa moe from 

 their bulk comprise the greater part of the kapa extant. Of the choice decorated 

 kapa there is perhaps not enough in all the museums to make a surface equalling 

 that of half a dozen kuina of five sheets each. In use the owner either wrapped the 

 kapa around him or shared it with one or more bedfellows on the spacious mat bed : if 

 .he had occasion to go out of the house in the night, he went with the kapa wrapped 

 around him as a rude toga. During the ordinary summer weather along the coast 

 the native use of the kapa moe in a close grass house would have been impossible to 

 a white man, so warm is this covering. Sleeping in an open cave on the summit of 

 Mauna L,oa (13,675 ft.) I could not bear a kapa moe over my ordinar}^ clothes, 

 although water was freezing in the calabashes at my feet. In the morning the bed- 

 making in a native house consisted in carefullv folding the kapa moe and putting it 

 in a safe place. 



Many a sheet of old kuinas has been used, even in these later daj's, for a wind- 

 ing sheet; and specimens of the finest quality have been found in the ancient burial 

 caves hidden for generations, but sure to be found sooner or later by accident (as in 

 cutting for irrigation ditches or railroads, or by the well thought out plans of the 

 professional cave hunter. There is a custom in some lands (I have forgotten where — 



"A critic, who is more familiar with female dress than I cau pretend to be, tells me that the garb in Figs. 113 

 and 116 is not a holoku but a muumuu or night dress. As the old natives never had a distinct night dress, and the 

 term offered me docs not appear in .Andrews' Dictionarj', I did not care to make the distinction, as the questionable 

 dress is certainly worn in the day time by the women photographed. My readers can make their selection of terms. 



