SwANTON] INlDIANS OF THE SOUTHEiASTEiRN UNITEO STATES 453 



bakca, apparently applicable to both the bark of the bass tree and that 

 of the slippery elm, the latter tree being known as bata'ko. 



References to the use of mulberry bark appear, however, to be most 

 numerous and most specific. The following quotation is from 

 Catesby, whose remarks apply particularly to the Siouan tribes of the 

 east and the Chickasaw : 



The principal of their cloth-manufacture is made of the inner bark of the 

 wild mulberry, of which the women make for themselves petticoats and other 

 habits. This cloth, as well as their baskets, is likewise adorned with figures of 

 animals represented in colours ; its substance and durableness recommends it 

 for floor and table-carpets. (Catesby, 1731-43, vol. 2, p. xi.) 



The only good descriptions of weaving which have come down to us 

 are from Du Pratz, who observed the process among the Natchez, and 

 Adair, who was particularly familiar with the Chickasaw. 



Du Pratz: 



To make mulberry-bark mantles they go into the woods in search of shoots 

 or sprouts of mulberry which come from these trees after they have been cut 

 down. The shoots are from 4 to 5 feet tall. They cut them before the sap 

 is gone, take off the bark, and dry it in the sun. When this bark is dry they 

 pound it to make the gross part fall away. The interior, which is like bast, 

 remains entire. This they pound anew, to make it finer. They then expose it 

 to the dew, in order to bleach it. 



When the bark is in this state they spin it roughly, like shoemaker's thread 

 or thread for sewing shoes. They cease to spin as soon as they have enough 

 of it. Then they set up their frame, which consists of two stakes extending 

 4 feet out of the ground, between the tops of which runs a large thread on 

 which other threads are double knotted. Finally they make a cross texture, 

 which has a border worked in patterns extending all the way around. This 

 stuff is at least an ell square and a line in thickness. The mantles of mul- 

 berry-bark thread are very white and very neat. They are fastened on by 

 means of cords of the same thread, having tassels hanging at each end. (Le 

 Page du Pratz, 1758, vol. 2, pp. 192-193; Swanton, 1911, p. 63.) 



Adair : 



When the coarse thread is prepared, they put it into a frame about six feet 

 square, and instead of a shuttle, they thrust through the thread with a long 

 cane, having a large string through the web, which they shift at every second 

 course of the thread. When they have thus finished their arduous labour, 

 they paint each side of the carpet with such figures, of various colours, as 

 their fruitful imaginations devise; particularly the images of those birds and 

 beasts they are acquainted with; and likewise of themselves, acting in their 

 social, and martial stations. There is that due proportion, and so much wild 

 variety in the design, that would really strike a curious eye with pleasure and 

 admiration. J. W. - t. Esq; a most skilful linguist in the Muskogee dialect, 

 assures me, that time out of mind they passed the woof with a shuttle; and 

 they have a couple of threddles, which they move with the hand so as to 

 enable them to make good dispatch, something after our manner of weaving. 

 This is sufficiently confirmed by their method of working broad garters, sashes, 

 shot-pounches, broad belts, and the like, which are decorated all over with 

 beautiful stripes and chequers. (Adair, 1775, p. 423.) 



