460 BUREAU QP AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Bull. 137 



of one sort or other in the cold Winter Weather. Fig. 1 wears the proper 

 Indian Match-coat, which is made of Skins, drest with the Furr on, sowed 

 together, and worn with the Furr inwards, having the edges also gashed for 

 beauty sake . . . Fig. 2. wears the DuflSeld Match-coat bought of the English. 

 (Beverley, 1705, bk. 3, pp. 3, 5, pi. 3.) 



The cloak of the Virginia priest differed somewhat, the fur being 

 left on the outside. (See p. 477.) 



Substantially the same costume was found among the Siouan peo- 

 ple; 



The Indian men have a match coat of hair, furs, feathers, or cloth, as the 

 women have . . . Their feather match coats are very pretty, especially some of 

 them, which are made extraordinary charming, containing several pretty figures 

 wrought in feathers, making them seem like a fine flower silk shag; and when 

 new and fresh, they become a bed very well, instead of a quilt. Some of another 

 sort are made of hair, raccoon, bever, or squirrel skins, which are very warm. 

 Others again are made of the green part of the skin of a mallard's head, which 

 they sew perfectly well together, their thread being either the sinews of a deer 

 divided very small, or silk grass. (Lawson, 1860, pp. 310-312.) 



Catesby says briefly : 



Tljeir ordinary Winter dress is a loose open waistcoat without sleeves, 

 which is usually made of a Deer skin, wearing the hairy side inwards or 

 outwards in proportion to the cold or warmth of the season; in the coldest 

 weather they cloath themselves with the skins of Bears, Beavers, Rackoons, etc. 

 besides warm and very pretty garments made of feathers. (Catesby, 1731^3, 

 vol. 2, p. VIII.) 



In the latitude of Florida it is natural that there should have been 

 less need for long, heavy clothing, and in fact we have only a general 

 mention by Spark and the testimony of one illustration in Le Moyne's 

 collection to the existence of such garments in the peninsula. (Hak- 

 luyt, 1847-89, vol. 3, p. 613; Le Moyne, 1875, pi. 39; Swanton, 1922, p. 

 346.) In the latter case, the chief represented as wearing the blanket 

 is followed by another man holding up the end in a manner sugges- 

 tive of sixteenth century Europe rather than America. However, 

 Narvaez and his companions, during their march through Florida 

 in 1528, were met by a chief borne upon the shoulders of his men 

 and wearing a painted deerskin which may well have been of the 

 same type (Cabeza de Vaca, Bandelier ed., 1905, p. 21). 



It thus appears that, apart from certain special garments worn 

 by the priests, there is little evidence for the use of shirts along the 

 south Atlantic coast in ancient times, and what Timberlake says of the 

 Cherokee seems to reinforce the idea that this garment represented 

 a later importation. 



At the time of his visit to that nation in 1761-62, they were wearing 

 shirts of English make and large mantles or match-coats, but the old 

 people informed him that before they had access to white men's goods 



