SwANTON] INlDIANS OF THE SOUTHEASTEiRN tTNUTED STATES 465 



around the foot like a sock, supposing it had the seam above. The skin is 

 cut three fingers longer than the foot, and the shoe is sewed only to the same 

 distance from the end of the foot, and all the rest is wrinkled on the foot. 

 The hinder part is sewed like a sock, but the flaps are from 8 to 9 inches 

 high. They go all the way round the leg. They are joined in front by means 

 of a thong of bearskin, which extends to the ankle, and thus makes lace boots. 

 These moccasins have neither soles nor heels. (Le Page du Pratz, 1758, vol. 2, 

 pp. 194-195; Swanton, 1911, p. 54.) 



After white contact, a marked modification and amplification of 

 native Indian costume took place, some of the effects of which have 

 been noted incidentally above. Its development in the northern and 

 central sections is best shown by Speck's description of Ynchi costume. 

 His account of the Yuchi man's costume in this transition era is as 

 follows, omitting references to the illustrations: 



A bright colored calico shirt was worn by the men next to the skin. Over 

 this was a sleeved jacket reaching, on young men, a little below the waist, on 

 old men and chiefs, below the knees. The shirt hung free before and behind, 

 but was bound about the waist by a belt or woolen sash. The older men who 

 wore the long coat-like garment had another sash with tassels dangling at the 

 sides outside of this. These two garments, it should be remembered, were 

 nearly always of calico or cotton goods, while it sometimes happened that 

 the long coat was of deerskin. Loin coverings were of two kinds; either a 

 simple apron was suspended from a girdle next the skin before and behind, 

 or a long narrow strip of stroud passed between the legs and was tucked under- 

 neath the girdle in front and in back, where the ends were allowed to fall as 

 flaps. Leggings of stroud or deerskin reaching from ankle to hip were sup- 

 ported by thongs to the belt and bound to the leg by tasseled and beaded garter 

 bands below the knee. Deerskin moccasins covered the feet. Turbans of cloth, 

 often held in place by a metal head band in which feathers were set for orna- 

 ment, covered the head. The man's outfit was then complete when he had 

 donned his bead-decorated side pouch, in which he kept pipe, tobacco and other 

 personal necessities, with its broad highly embroidered bandolier. The other 

 ornaments were metal breast pendants, earrings, finger rings, bracelets and 

 armlets, beadwork neckbands and beadwork strips which were fastened in 

 the hair. . . . 



The bright colored calico shirt worn next to the skin was called goci l)ilan4 

 "what goes around the back," and was provided with buttons and often a frill 

 around the collar and at the wrists. The outer garment, god stale, "over the 

 back," of calico also, was more characteristic. This had short sleeves with 

 frilled cuff bands which came just above the frills of the under shirt, thereby 

 adding to the frilled effect. A large turn-down collar bordered with a frill which 

 ran all around the lapels down the front and about the hem, added further to this 

 picturesque effect, and a great variety of coloring is exhibited in the specimens 

 which I have seen. The long skirted coat, god stale* a', w^orn by the old men, 

 chiefs and town oflScials, was usually white with, however, just as many frills. 

 An old specimen of Cherokee coat . . . shows very well the sort of coat 

 commonly worn by the men of other southeastern tribes as well as the Yuchi. 

 The material used is tanned buckskin with sewed-on fringe corresponding to 

 the calico frills in more modern specimens. It is said that as the men became 

 older and more venerable, they lengthened the skirts of their coats. A sash 

 commonly held these coats in at the waist. 



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