SwANTON] INlDIANS of the &OUTHEASTEIRN UNITED STATES 473 



It will be noted that the material is largely European, and it 

 probably took the place of the second mulberry-fiber garment men- 

 tioned by Elvas. 



In cold weather, [says Adair] the Chickasaw women wrap themselves in 

 the softened skins of buffalo calves, with the wintry shagged wool inward. 

 (Adair, 1775, p. 8.) 



It is the shawl or tapaske' of the Alabama, except that anciently this 

 covered one breast only, usually the left, and was fastened on the 

 left shoulder, leaving the right arm free. There is no specific men- 

 tion of a cloak or coat among the Timucua women, but Le Moyne 

 figures some of them with a moss garment carried over one shoulder 

 and this may correspond to the fiber cloak similarly worn farther 

 north (Le Moyne, 1875, pis. 19, 34, 39, 40; Swanton, 1922, p. 346). 

 Du Pratz describes the use of an upper garment in almost the same 

 terms as Elvas about two centuries before. 



When the cold makes itself felt they wear a second [mantle], the middle 

 of which passes under the right arm, the two corners being fastened on the 

 left shoulder. In this manner the two arms are free and only one breast is 

 visible. (Le Page du Pratz, 1758, vol. 2, pp. 190-197; Swanton, 1911, p. 53.) 

 [PI. 70.] 



Penicaut notes "a garment of white cloth which extends from 

 neck to feet, made almost like the Andriennes of our French ladies" 

 (Penicaut in Margry, 1875-86, vol. 5, p. 445; Swanton, 1911, p. 52). 

 This must be the same article of clothing but with the size some- 

 what exaggerated. Women too poor to have this cloak protected 

 themselves with a skin in the coldest weather. When Iberville vis- 

 ited the Bayogoula in the middle of March, some of them were ob- 

 served wearing blankets of bearskin (Margry, 1875-86, vol. 4, p. 

 169; Swanton, 1911, p. 276). Kobes of muskrat skins and turkey 

 feathers are mentioned among the Houma and Tunica (Thwaites, 

 1897-1901, vol. 65, pp. 151-153; Shea, 1861, p. 147; Swanton, 1911, 

 p. 289). 



According to Strachey (1849, p. 66) Virginia women wore leg- 

 gings as well as the men, and Beverley in one of his figures shows 

 a woman in winter costume wearing leggings (Beverley, 1705, pi. 7, 

 fig. 2). But this figure is probably from Michel and represents a 

 Monacan woman at a late date. (See Bushnell, 1930, p. 9.) Else- 

 where this is always mentioned as an article of male attire and Bar- 

 tram specifically denies that it was used by the women. 



To make up for the absence of leggings or any garments corre- 

 sponding to them, the women's "breechclout" or skirt was usually made 

 longer, as already described, and on the other hand the moccasin was 

 sometimes brought higher up the leg. The woman figured by Bever- 

 ley wearing leggings also has moccasins. Lawson (1860, p. 310) says 

 that in the tribes with which he was acquainted the women some- 



