Ethnographical collections from East Greenland. 571 



reach much longer up on the leg than the men's and are naturally 

 much wider at the top. The upper part of the women's breeches 

 is also very curtailed especially behind, so much so that in stoop- 

 ing forwards a part of the naked body will always appear between 

 the frock and the edge of the breeches. In front the flap of the 

 upper garment hardly reaches the lower edge of the breeches. In 

 most of the women's dresses shown in the illustrations here (re- 

 produced quite as they were arranged in our National Museum) the 

 breeches are drawn too high up under the frock, so that the flap 

 covers too much of the front and back; but the conditions seen in 

 figs. 303—304 are nearly right. — The outer breeches are edged 

 with a folded band of black leather, through which is drawn a thin 

 rawhide lace with the ends emerging from the openings in the band 

 at the back. By means of this lace the breeches are tightened round 

 the hips (and round the legs, cf. fig. 301). 



Outside Greenland there is a greater difference in the clothing of the 

 men and women. At most places the frock of the former is cut square 

 below without flaps but often ornamented with a row of fringes ^); the frock 

 of the women is provided with verj^ large flaps or rather trains especially at 

 the back. But in the central regions among the Eskimo at Winter Island 

 and Iglulik^) such large flaps, like enormous coattails, are also found at the 

 back of the men's frocks. Here the flaps on the frocks of both men and 

 women are almost as broad as the body and rounded along the lower border 

 and the women have them almost down to the feet at the back. Down 

 along the east coast of Hudson Bay and on Baffins Island women's flaps 

 are considerably narrower, and almost resemble tails reaching quite down 

 to [the feet. Kumlien calls them "lance-shaped trains" and mentions, that 

 *' there is often an approach towards this prolongation in the men's jackets," 

 as is also evident from Boas' illustrations. Only the frocks of children are 

 without these flaps. On the west coast of Hudson Bay among the Kinipetu 

 and Aivilik tribes we And almost the same large tails on the men's frocks 

 as further northwards at Iglulik and Winter Island. The Kinipetu male dress 

 especially has a long tail which reaches to the ground and is almost square 

 below^). The Aivilik male dress on the other hand is cut off sharply below 

 and hung all round with fringes*). Near Mackenzie River and westwards in 

 Alaska there is no trace of this mode with the back-train; the male dress is 

 cut square below or is a trifle longer behind than in front ^). The same 

 holds good of the men's frocks on the eastern side of Hudson Bay, the 

 north coast of Labrador and Resolution Island*'). Murdoch refers to the 

 illustrations in Cranz^) in order to prove that the ancient fashion in Green- 

 land was much more like that of the western Eskimo. Cranz's illustrations 



1) Boas (1888) fig. 397; Turner (1894) figs. 30— 31 ; Murdoch (1892) figs. 53—58. 



2) Parry (1824) and Lyon (1824), see the illustrations. 



3) Boas (1901) pp. 49—50, figs. 67—68 and pp. 103 — 105, figs. 150—152. 

 *) Boas (1901) p. 102 and PI. I IV. 



5) Nelson (1899) p. 34. 



8) Turner (1894), figs. 34—36; Ellis (1750) p. 142 (at Resolution Island); Frobisher 



(1577) p. 225; Kumlien (1879) p. 23. 

 7) Murdoch (1892) p. 120; Cranz (1770) vol. I, PI. III. 



