22 
nUSSIA IN EUROPE 
neither the master nor mistress could read or write, hut I was, 
perhaps, misinformed. On leaving I kissed the hand of the lady 
of the house, and in return she kissed rny forehead, the invari- 
able custom in old Russian families in l)idding adieu to guests 
with Avhom they were pleased. The family, I was informed, 
lived in two or three small rooms, keeping the others for show 
and an occasional party. 
Within the present century Russia has developed a literature 
of i^oetry and prose, history and romance, excelled by no other 
nation. Few novels are more read today than those of Tour- 
geniefF and Tolstoi and other Russian Avriters. Most of them 
recount tales of Russia and Russian life, and have a Avide circu- 
lation in other countries. The education of these Avriters and 
their mental training have been essentially Russian, and their 
Avritings, therefore, touch the heart of the Russian people, and 
this has led a constantly increasing number to learn to read- 
There is also a large number of folk songs and tales Avhich are 
Avidely sung and recited among the jAeasantry. Science has also 
made as rapid progress as belles-letters. There are no better 
geologists and chemists in the world than the Russian, Avhile 
other scientists are not far behind. In 1892, 9,588 books Avere 
produced, with an aggregate of 30,000,000 copies. 
THE FAIR AT NIJMI NOA^GOROD. 
The geographical position of Nijni Novgorod is most favorable 
as a gathering place for people from all parts of Russia and the 
Orient. Situated at the junction of the Volga and Oka, it is 
easily accessible by these rivers and their branches and canal 
connections to people from all parts of Russia and from some 
parts of Asia. It is also the nearest large city to the lowest 
passes for caraA^ans between Russia and China. This position 
makes Nijni NoA'gorod the natural place for the great fair of 
Russia. These fairs Avere formerly held in all the countries of 
Europe and Avere largel}’^ attended, but Avith good roads, steam- 
boats, and railroads the necessity for them has ceased, excepting 
in Russia and some parts of Asia. 
In 1881 I visited the fair at Nijni NoA’^gorod. Held on Ioav, 
flat ground opposite the city, for more than five hundred years 
this fair, though not ahvays held at Nijni Novgorod, has l^een 
the great mart of exchange for the products of Russia, Sil^eria, 
China, Persia, Turania, and the Crimea. The fair is opened in 
