276 THE ROAD TO BOLIVIA 



the S])hinx. Short, solid, atliletic, without an ounce of surplus flesh, 

 accustomed to hardships, fond of frugal living, with a great capacity 

 for ph3'sical endurance, he has spent the major portion of his life 

 campaigning in the mountains and exploring the wilderness on the 

 east slope of the Andes. 



A celehration of the feast of the Asuncion occurred in a plaza in 

 the northern part of La Paz. It is one of the most ])opular festivals 

 in the calendar, and called in from the countr}' several thousand 

 Indians, who took possession of the town from noon of the da\' pre- 

 ceding the anniversary until toward niglit of the day following. 



Along ahout two o'clock in the afternoon hegan the dances and 

 other ceremonies which have heen inherited from the days of the 

 Incas, and which are said to be of serious significance, like the ghost 

 dances of the Sioux, the corn dance of the Navajo, the snake dance 

 of the Moki, and similar rites practiced by the red men of North 

 America. Each group of dancers was attended l)y a band of musi- 

 cians playing native instruments. There were some modern drums 

 imported from Europe, but more of native manufacture, made of 

 hollow segments of trees covered with goat skins; native guitars and 

 mandolins, rude pipes of bamboo, and long trumpets of reeds. The 

 music had no harmony or melod\^ and was all in the minor key. 

 Those who were not singing or dancing kei)t U]) a continuous chant 

 in dreary monotones, and the leaders moved among them, gesticulat- 

 ing violent!}' with their heads and arms. 



At intervals the music and motions would cease and the performers 

 would refresh tiiemselves with copious draughts oi cJdca and alcohol. 

 The dancing and drinking continued all the afternoon and far into 

 the night, until everybody was in a distressing state of intoxication. 

 The pavement was covered with the bodies of men and women who 

 were unconscious from drink and fatigue and the remainder were 

 howling in the streets. 



Not far from the Island of Titicaca a narrow peninsula projects into 

 the lake, on which is a small town of great fame — the residence of the 

 patron saint of Bolivia. Here in prehistoric times was the seat of a 

 celebrated oracle, with an extensive group of temples and monasteries 

 and the i)lace of assembly of princes, priests, warriors, notables of the 

 empire, as well as the common people, for the spring festivals which 

 took place everv year. The onl}' ruin of importance which remains 

 is a series of thrones upon the slope of a hill near Cojiacabana, which 

 were evidently '" the seats of the mighty ", from which the Incas or tlie 



