280 THE ROAD TO BOLIVIA 



diffused with light, which proceeds from no fixed source, but is alwa3''S 

 siifticient to distinguish the outlines of articles upon the altar and 

 objects upon the walls, and my informants were unable to detect any 

 evidences of trickery. The image is said to have been carved in the 

 sixteenth century by an ignorant Indian, to whom the Holy ^Mother 

 herself sat as a model. 



Persons who desire to receive the blessings of the Virgin pay a fee 

 to a monk in the cloister of the adjoining convenU and are allowed 

 to pass into the little chai)el, where service is continuous night and 

 day during the time of the festival. Bearing lighted candles in their 

 hands, they approach the altar-rail and kneel. A bridal wreath is 

 suspended by long strips of broad white ribbon in the center of the 

 chapel. In a little gallery over the entrance is a band of music, with 

 a cabinet organ, two horns, a flute, a 'cello, and a native instrument 

 made of reeds. Behind the altar-rail stands a monk, assisted by two 

 barefooted acolytes. As the devotees a})proach tlie altar, the acolytes 

 take tlie candles from their hands and place them in the rack ])re- 

 pared for that purpose. The}^ then kneel as closely together as })0S- 

 sible in front of the altar, and a robe of white satin embroidered in 

 silver, formerly worn by the image, is sjiread over their heads. The 

 officiating monk moves his hand rapidly over the mantle and utters 

 a blessing. The robe is then lifted and the worshipers depart with 

 precious consolation. 



In these few pages we have been able to see but little of that strange 

 land where the sun shines in the north and Christmas comes in mid- 

 summer, but I hope that the little glimpse I have been able to give 

 will induce many to make the journey thither. The compensations 

 are greater than those offered by most of the countries to which our 

 tourists go. The voyage, after you pass Panama, is the most delightful 

 that the ocean offers, and the opportunities for investment are sur- 

 passed nowhere else. It is unfortunate that we know so little of the 

 South American republics when they offer so much of value to us. 



