26 CRUISE OF THE BARRERA 



in the ranges, narrow passes open into cul-de-sacs 

 almost wholly "land locked" by perpendicular 

 walls ; and scattered over the level floorlike surface 

 of the valley are verdure-clad mogotes resembling 

 giant ruined castles and ancient battlements. 

 The great bulk of the sierras dissolves from view 

 on the east and west horizons where individual 

 higher peaks, purplish and indistinct, loom up 

 above the hazy mass. Down in the valley trails 

 /ike red ribbons wind past groves of royal palms, 

 cultivated patches of vivid green, and the many 

 palm-thatched bohios of the natives. Off to the 

 right at the foot of a huge mogotes El Tumbadero, 

 lies the little village of Vifiales, its tiled roofs 

 glistening amid the foliage of its trees. A small 

 yellow cathedral with bell tower, like some ancient 

 church in Andalusia, occupies a central square and 

 guards the faith of the inhabitants. Large birds 

 float lazily two thousand feet above. We quieted 

 the motor that we might enjoy undisturbed this 

 rare scene of beauty. 



The valley of Vifiales must not be compared 

 with the Yosemite or the Grand Canyon, nor with 

 some famed Alpine passes, for it cannot display 

 the astounding contrasts of these or many well- 



