4 ST. J AGO— CAPE DE VERB ISLANDS ■ chap. 



tion of the branches was exactly N.E. by N., and S.W. by S., 

 and these natural vanes must indicate the prevaiUng direction 

 of the force of the trade-wind. The travelling had made so 

 little impression on the barren soil, that we here missed our 

 track, and took that to Fuentes. This we did not find out till 

 we arrived there ; and we were afterwards glad of our mistake. 

 Fuentes is a pretty village, with a small stream ; and every- 

 thing appeared to prosper well, excepting, indeed, that which 

 ought to do so most — its inhabitants. The black children, 

 completely naked, and looking very wretched, were carrying 

 bundles of firewood half as big as their own bodies. 



Near Fuentes we saw a large flock of guinea-fowl — prob- 

 ably fifty or sixty in number. They were extremely wary, and 

 could not be approached. They avoided us, like partridges on 

 a rainy day in September, running with their heads cocked up ; 

 and if pursued, they readily took to the wing. 



The scenery of St. Domingo possesses a beauty totally 

 unexpected, from the prevalent gloomy character of the rest of 

 the island. The village is situated at the bottom of a valley, 

 bounded by lofty and jagged walls of stratified lava. The 

 black rocks afford a most striking contrast with the bright 

 green vegetation, which follows the banks of a little stream of 

 clear water. It happened to be a grand feast-day, and the 

 village was full of people. On our return we overtook a party 

 of about twenty young black girls, dressed in excellent taste ; 

 their black skins and snow-white linen being set off by coloured 

 turbans and large shawls. As soon as we approached near, 

 they suddenly all turned round, and covering the path with 

 their shawls, sung with great energy a wild song, beating time 

 with their hands upon their legs. We threw them some vin- 

 tems, which were received with screams of laughter, and we 

 left them redoubling the noise of their song. 



One morning the view was singularly clear ; the distant 

 mountains being projected with the sharpest outline, on a 

 heavy bank of dark blue clouds. Judging from the appearance, 

 and from similar cases in England, I supposed that the air was 

 saturated with moisture. The fact, however, turned out quite 

 the contrary. The hygrometer gave a difference of 29.6 de- 

 grees, between the temperature of the air, and the point at 

 which dew was precipitated. This difference was nearly double 



