44 MALDONADO chap. 



same ; an inhabitant of the Pampas no doubt would have con- 

 sidered it as truly alpine. The country is so thinly inhabited, 

 that during the whole day we scarcely met a single person. 

 Las Minas is much smaller even than Maldonado. It is seated 

 on a little plain, and is surrounded by low rocky mountains. It 

 is of the usual symmetrical form ; and with its whitewashed 

 church standing in the centre, had rather a pretty appearance. 

 The outskirting houses rose out of the plain like isolated beings, 

 without the accompaniment of gardens or courtyards. This is 

 generally the case in the country, and all the houses have, in 

 consequence, an uncomfortable aspect. At night we stopped at 

 a pulperia, or drinking -shop. During the evening a great 

 number of Gauchos came in to drink spirits and smoke cigars : 

 their appearance is very striking ; they are generally tall and 

 handsome, but with a proud and dissolute expression of 

 countenance. They frequently wear their moustaches, and long 

 black hair curling down their backs. With their brightly- 

 coloured garments, great spurs clanking about their heels, and 

 knives stuck as daggers (and often so used) at their waists, they 

 look a very different race of men from what might be expected 

 from their name of Gauchos, or simple countrymen. Their 

 politeness is excessive ; they never drink their spirits without 

 expecting you to taste it ; but whilst making their exceedingly 

 graceful bow, they seem quite as ready, if occasion offered, to 

 cut your throat. 



On the third day we pursued rather an irregular course, as 

 I was employed in examining some beds of marble. On the 

 fine plains of turf we saw many ostriches (Struthio rhea). 

 Some of the flocks contained as many as twenty or thirty birds. 

 These, when standing on any little eminence, and seen against 

 the clear sky, presented a very noble appearance. I never met 

 with such tame ostriches in any other part of the country : it 

 was easy to gallop up within a short distance of them ; but 

 then, expanding their wings, they made all sail right before the 

 wind, and soon left the horse astern. 



At night we came to the house of Don Juan Fuentes, a rich 

 landed proprietor, but not personally known to either of my 

 companions. On approaching the house of a stranger, it is 

 usual to follow several little points of etiquette : riding up 

 slowly to the door, the salutation of Ave Maria is given, and 



