ASCENT OF MOUNT TARN 



249 



When the Beagle was here in the month of February, I 

 started one morning at four o'clock to ascend Mount Tarn, 

 which is 2600 feet high, and is the most elevated point in this 

 immediate district. We went in a boat to the foot of the moun- 

 tain (but unluckily not to the best part), and then began our 

 ascent. The forest commences at the line of high-water mark, 

 and during the first two hours I gave over all hopes of reaching 

 the summit. So thick was the wood, that it was necessary to 

 have constant recourse to the compass ; for every landmark, 

 though in a mountainous country, was completely shut out. In 

 the deep ravines the deathlike scene of desolation exceeded all 

 description ; outside it was blowing a gale, but in these hollows 



PATAGONIAN SPURS AND PIPE. 



not even a breath of wind stirred the leaves of the tallest trees. 

 So gloomy, cold, and wet was every part, that not even the 

 fungi, mosses, or ferns could flourish. In the valleys it was 

 scarcely possible to crawl along, they were so completely bar- 

 ricaded by great mouldering trunks, which had fallen down in 

 every direction. When passing over these natural bridges, one's 

 course was often arrested by sinking knee-deep into the rotten 

 wood ; at other times, when attempting to lean against a firm 

 tree, one was startled by finding a mass of decayed matter ready 

 to fall at the slightest touch. We at last found ourselves among 

 the stunted trees, and then soon reached the bare ridge, which 

 conducted us to the summit. Here was a view characteristic of 

 Tierra del Fuego ; irregular chains of hills, mottled ^^■ith patches 



