348 PORTILLO PASS chap. 



very remarkable. Travellers having observed the difficulty of 

 judging heights and distances amidst lofty mountains, have 

 generally attributed it to the absence of objects of comparison. 

 It appears to me that it is fully as much owing to the trans- 

 parency of the air confounding objects at different distances, 

 and likewise partly to the novelty of an unusual degree of 

 fatigue arising from a little exertion, — habit being thus opposed 

 to the evidence of the senses. I am sure that this extreme 

 clearness of the air gives a peculiar character to the landscape, 

 all objects appearing to be brought nearly into one plane, as 

 in a drawing or panorama. The transparency is, I presume, 

 owing to the equable and high state of atmospheric dryness. 

 This dryness was shown by the manner in which woodwork 

 shrank (as I soon found by the trouble my geological hammer 

 gave me) ; by articles of food, such as bread and sugar, 

 becoming extremely hard ; and by the preservation of the 

 skin and parts of the flesh of the beasts which had perished 

 on the road. To the same cause we must attribute the 

 singular facility with which electricity is excited. My flannel- 

 waistcoat, when rubbed in the dark, appeared as if it had been 

 washed with phosphorus ; every hair on a dog's back crackled ; 

 — even the linen sheets, and leathern straps of the saddle, when 

 handled, emitted sparks. 



March 2'^rd. — The descent on the eastern side of the Cor- 

 dillera is much shorter or steeper than on the Pacific side ; in 

 other words, the mountains rise more abruptly from the plains, 

 than from the alpine country of Chile. A level and brilliantly 

 white sea of clouds was stretched out beneath our feet, shutting 

 out the view of the equally level Pampas. We soon entered 

 the band of clouds, and did not again emerge from it that day. 

 About noon, finding pasture for the animals and bushes for 

 firewood at Los Arenales, we stopped for the night. This 

 was near the uppermost limit of bushes, and the elevation, I 

 suppose, was between seven and eight thousand feet. 



I was much struck with the marked difference between the 

 vegetation of these eastern valleys and those on the Chilian 

 side : yet the climate, as well as the kind of soil, is nearly the 

 same, and the difference of longitude very trifling. The same 

 remark holds good with the quadrupeds, and in a lesser degree 

 with the birds and insects. I may instance the mice, of which 



