514 MAURITIUS chap. 



into the sharpest points. Masses of white clouds were collected 

 around these pinnacles, as if for the sake of pleasing the 

 stranger's eye. The whole island, with its sloping border and 

 central mountains, was adorned with an air of perfect elegance : 

 the scenery, if I may use such an expression, appeared to the 

 sight harmonious. 



I spent the greater part of the next day in walking about 

 the town and visiting different people. The town is of con- 

 siderable size, and is said to contain 20,000 inhabitants ; the 

 streets are very clean and regular. Although the island has 

 been so many years under the English government, the general 

 character of the place is quite French : Englishmen speak to 

 their servants in French, and the shops are all French ; indeed 

 I should think that Calais or Boulogne was much more Anglified. 

 There is a very pretty little theatre, in which operas are 

 excellently performed. We were also surprised at seeing large 

 booksellers' shops, with well-stored shelves ; — music and read- 

 ing bespeak our approach to the old world of civilisation ; for 

 in truth both Australia and America are new worlds. 



The various races of men walking in the streets afford the 

 most interesting spectacle in Port Louis. Convicts from India 

 are banished here for life ; at present there are about 800, and 

 they are employed in various public works. Before seeing 

 these people, I had no idea that the inhabitants of India were 

 such noble-looking figures. Their skin is extremely dark, and 

 many of the older men had large mustaches and beards of a 

 snow-white colour ; this, together with the fire of their ex- 

 pression, gave them quite an imposing aspect. The greater 

 number had been banished for murder and the worst crimes ; 

 others for causes which can scarcely be considered as moral 

 faults, such as for not obeying, from superstitious motives, the 

 English laws. These men are generally quiet and well con- 

 ducted ; from their outward conduct, their cleanliness, and 

 faithful observance of their strange religious rites, it was 

 impossible to look at them with the same eyes as on our 

 wretched convicts in New South Wales. 



May \st. — Sunday. I took a quiet walk along the sea- 

 coast to the north of the town. The plain in this part is quite 

 uncultivated ; it consists of a field of black lava, smoothed over 

 with coarse grass and bushes, the latter being chiefly Mimosas. 



