526 BAHIA, BRAZIL chap. 



Brazil, in order to complete the chronometrical measurement of 

 the world. We arrived there on August 1st, and stayed four 

 days, during which I took several long walks. I was glad 

 to find my enjoyment in tropical scenery had not decreased 

 from the want of novelty, even in the slightest degree. The 

 elements of the scenery are so simple that they are worth 

 mentioning, as a proof on what trifling circumstances exquisite 

 natural beauty depends. 



The country may be described as a level plain of about 

 three hundred feet in elevation, which in all parts has been worn 

 into flat-bottomed valleys. This structure is remarkable in a 

 granitic land, but is nearly universal in all those softer formations 

 of which plains are usually composed. The whole surface 

 is covered by various kinds of stately trees, interspersed with 

 patches of cultivated ground, out of which houses, convents, and 

 chapels arise. It must be remembered that within the tropics 

 the wild luxuriance of nature is not lost even in the vicinity 

 of large cities ; for the natural vegetation of the hedges and hill- 

 sides overpowers in picturesque effect the artificial labour of man. 

 Hence, there are only a few spots where the bright red soil 

 affords a strong contrast with the universal clothing of green. 

 From the edges of the plain there are distant views either of 

 the ocean, or of the great Bay with its low wooded shores, and 

 on which numerous boats and canoes show their white sails. 

 Excepting from these points, the scene is extremely limited ; 

 following the level pathways, on each hand, only glimpses into 

 the wooded valleys below can be obtained. The houses, I may 

 add, and especially the sacred edifices, are built in a peculiar 

 and rather fantastic style of architecture. They are all white- 

 washed ; so that when illumined by the brilliant sun of mid-day, 

 and as seen against the pale blue sky of the horizon, they stand 

 out more like shadows than real buildings. 



Such are the elements of the scenery, but it is a hopeless 

 attempt to paint the general effect. Learned naturalists 

 describe these scenes of the tropics by naming a multitude of 

 objects, and mentioning some characteristic feature of each. 

 To a learned traveller this possibly may communicate some 

 definite ideas ; but who else from seeing a plant in an 

 herbarium can imagine its appearance when growing in its 

 native soil ? Who from seeing choice plants in a hothouse can 



