THE STRAIT OF MAGELLAN. 33 



of the safety of any unfortunate pedestrians who may chance 

 to be in their way. Coleridge has immortalised the streets of 

 Cologne as distinguished for the variety of evil odours which 

 they possess, but after having visited both cities, I have no 

 hesitation in affirming that Eio bears away the palm in this 

 respect. We encountered a mixed population in the streets, 

 the negro element being very prevalent, and the heads of the 

 women of that race in general decorated with gaily-coloured 

 turbans. We visited the Passao Publico, or public garden, 

 which is very well kept, and forms a pleasant resort in which 

 to spend a vacant hour, as we often subsequently found, an 

 agreeable shade being afforded by the numerous tropical trees 

 which are cultivated in it. Here we noted palms of many 

 species, silk-cotton trees {Bombax), Pandani, SipJwnice, Cyca- 

 deacece, beautiful specimens of the traveller's tree {Ravenala 

 Madagascariensis), together with a number of handsome shrubs 

 of various genera, and a variety of water-plants. An artificial 

 strip of water was tenanted by a number of water-fowl, em- 

 bracing swans, geese, and ducks of various species, while on 

 its grassy banks herons were standing thoughtfully on one 

 leg, or slowly stalking along, each step appearing to require a 

 moment's consideration. Overhead, some white pigeons had 

 built their nests among the crown of leaves of a tall palm, 

 and were sitting there in great content. We lingered about 

 the garden till after dusk, when a few fireflies made their 

 appearance, flitting about the plants, and about an hour later 

 we returned to the ship for the night. 



The following day, Sunday, some of us went on shore to 

 church in the forenoon, finding the pretty interior of the 

 English Chapel a pleasing contrast to its dirty and noisy 

 surroundings, as, though there are services in the Catholic 

 churches, and a vast and wasteful expenditure of rockets and 



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