THE STRAIT OF MAGELLAN. 251 



on the 17th, when the wmd forsook us, and we had again 

 recourse to steam. The afternoon of that day was beautiful, 

 but next morning it was blowing hard, and by the afternoon 

 a regular pampero had set in, against which we struggled 

 painfully. The night that succeeded is vividly impressed on 

 my memory, by the extent of its discomfort — a large earthen- 

 ware jar containing a lizard (Teguexin), in methylated spirits, 

 breaking in my cabin, so that I was almost suffocated, from 

 the impossibility of keeping my windows wide open, as the 

 water was coming over the bulwarks in sheets ; and (to add 

 to the discomforts of the situation) a shower of books, not 

 sufficiently jammed up, descending on the top of me as I lay 

 in bed. The gale continued during most of the 19th, but 

 gradually died down towards the evening, and on the 20th we 

 had again delightful sunny weather, with a favourable breeze, 

 which allowed sail to be made in the morning. On the 

 forenoon of the 21st, we passed Maldonado, gaining a transi- 

 tory view of the "Narcissus," which had preceded us from 

 Eio some days previously. The afternoon and evening were 

 very fine, so that, as we steamed up the Plate, we had an 

 excellent view of the coast, which again recalled that of 

 Holland, in many of its features. As was the case on 

 the preceding year, great quantities of cobweb appeared on 

 the rigging of the ship, accompanied with a considerable 

 number of the architects. We anchored well up the har- 

 bour of Monte Video, soon after six p.m., shifting billet next 

 morning to a more roomy berth. That day I landed shortly 

 before noon, and after strolling through the Cathedral Square 

 and the market beyond, without observing anything worthy 

 of remark, pursued my way along a long straight street, 

 planted with trees on either side, and distinguished at one 

 extremity by a tall column, bearing on its summit a statue 



