THE STRAIT OF MAGELLAN. 421 



" dim religious liglit," we could see very little, and so did not 

 remain long, but passed the rest of the evening pacing up and 

 down a fine arcade, which, being brilliantly lighted, and 

 abounding in handsome shops, is a favourite resort for the 

 beauty and fashion of Santiago. 



l!^ext day, October 1st, after breakfast, we walked to the 

 little rocky hill of Santa Lucia, ascending it in an orthodox 

 manner to obtain the view of the city, for which it is justly 

 celebrated. It was a clear, sunny morning, so that the. pro- 

 spect more than came up to our expectations : the combined 

 effect produced by the city, with its countless church towers 

 and spires, extending for several miles over a flat green plain, 

 and the surrounding mountains, some of which exhibited 

 beautiful shades of purple, while others were white with 

 snow, being remarkably fine. The regularity of the style 

 in which the- streets are laid out, so as to cross each other at 

 right angles, and the manner in which the houses, roofed 

 \yith reddish-brown tiles, are built so as to form hollow 

 squares enclosing courts and gardens, with oranges and a 

 variety of other trees and shrubs planted in the centre, con- 

 duced to form a very striking scene. After spending some 

 time on the summit of the hill, and inspecting an old fort on 

 one side, built by the Spaniards to repress the incursions of 

 tlie Indians, we took a long walk through the streets, visiting 

 many of the churches, some of the pictures and images in 

 which were among the most revolting I have ever seen, as 

 well as the site of the church burnt down in 1863, and a 

 private house, built at an enormous expense, in imitation of 

 the Alhambra ; and then returned to our hotel to luncheon, 

 afterwards proceeding to the Museum to call onDr.Philippi,the 

 distinguished director of it. We were much at a loss where 

 to find him when we reached the shabby building which we 



