THE STRAIT OF MAGELLAN. 423 



was not so clear as on the 1st, we took a long circuit through 

 the streets, crossing the river Maypu, which flows through 

 part of the town, and walking out into the suburbs. We 

 entered a large cemetery, and were strolling carelessly about 

 in it when we accidentally lighted upon the plot of ground 

 where the remains of the women, burnt in the conflagration 

 of the church in 1863, are interred. The ground is railed in, 

 and in the centre of the space a large metal cross is erected, 

 while fixed to the railing in front are two marble tablets, 

 bearing an inscription recording the tragical event, and termi- 

 nating with the words, " Eestos de sus Victimas, 2000 mas 

 o menos." Although the dastardly conduct of the priests on 

 that occasion excited the utmost indignation at the time, the 

 lower classes appear to be still thoroughly priest-ridden, and 

 Santiago gives one the impression of a city where Eoman 

 Catholicism, in its worst form, is rampant. 



In the afternoon we visited, under the guidance of the 

 Chilian gentleman above mentioned, a most interesting relic 

 of the Spanish conquest, namely, the original house of the 

 celebrated Pedro Valdivia, a very miserable-looking little 

 dwelling, to which we gained access through the politeness of 

 an ecclesiastic. After that we walked to the so-called Botani- 

 cal Gardens, which appeared to partake of the nature of a 

 wilderness, returning to our hotel in time for the table-d'hote. 

 Next morning our brief sojourn was brought to a close, and 

 we left Santiago at ten A.M., reaching Valparaiso between 

 four and five in the afternoon. 



