502 NATURAL HISTORY OF 



the sea (the Caldera Inferno), a pilot-boat came off to us, but 

 we declined to avail ourselves of her services, and she therefore 

 returned to the shore to inform the governor of our arrival. 

 As we steamed into the bay, which lies open, permitting the 

 entrance of a considerable swell at times, the little town of 

 Horta presented a very attractive appearance, with its bright 

 whitewashed houses scattered over the slope of a rather steep 

 hill, and interspersed with trees, whose foliage exhibited an 

 agreeable variety of shades of verdure. The only vessels 

 lying at anchor in the bay were a Portuguese man-of-war and 

 a few small merchant vessels. 



We anchored about four p.m., and in a short time the 

 health-boat, with the doctor and governor, and an interpreter, 

 came alongside, and after a string of questions relative to the 

 health of the ship's company had been satisfactorily answered, 

 we were granted " pratique." Thereafter a number of boats 

 came alongside, with eggs, fruit, and a variety of other articles 

 for sale, the inhabitants of Fayal, like those of most Eoman 

 Catholic countries, entertaining no scruples on the score of 

 carrying on trade on Sundays. The only fruits ripe at this 

 time were apricots and small plums, and oranges, which we 

 had expected to procure, we were informed, were not culti- 

 vated at all in Fayal, notwithstanding that San Miguel is such 

 a noted locality for them. Vines, we were told, were grown 

 at one time, but not now, Pico being, at present, the wine- 

 producing island. Eggs were cheap, about sixpence a dozen. 

 The British acting consul, Mr. Lane, came on board imme- 

 diately after we had obtained " pratique," and from him we 

 received a considerable amount of information with regard 

 to the island, which possesses about 25,000 inhabitants, 

 of which 7000 are located in Horta. The Azorean popula- 



