THE TAJIN TOTONAC PART 1 KELLY AND PALERM 



165 



lot of cane juice, as a consequence of which the 

 latter ferments but does not sour. 



Sometimes the pie is prepared from sections of a 

 vine known as cu-coks (No. 202). The stem is cut 

 in short lengths which are dropped into the cane 

 juice. Our informant is uncertain whether or not 

 the stem is first roasted. In lieu of the above 

 preparations, a bit of distilled alcohol (reftno) 

 may be added to the juice, by way of pie. The 

 vessel, with a cloth tied tightly over its mouth, is 

 allowed to stand 24 hours, following which the 

 pulque is ready. It is" a violent green and is con- 

 sidered highly intoxicating. 



No liquor is made locally from maize, either 

 from the grain or the stalk. However, a fermented 

 drink based on the juice of the maize stalk appar- 

 ently was widespread in Mexico in former times. 

 It is barely possible that the pulque cle carta, now so 

 popular in Taj in, represents a survival, with 

 sugarcane substituted for the cornstalk. 



Informants say that years ago, aguardiente de 

 carta was manufactured in Taj in. The name im- 

 plies distillation, but we were unable to obtain 

 details. 



HOT AND COLD FOODS 



The familiar division of foods into hot and cold 

 categories is found among the Totonac, as it is in 

 many parts of Mexico. 83 We made no particular 

 effort to list foods according to this classification, 

 and the following data were noted more or less 

 incidentally : 



Hot foods: onion, chili, ripe squash (calabasa) , 

 aromatic avocado, nut of the coyol palm, sugar- 

 cane, orange, papaya, mango, annona, banana, 

 honey of both native and introduced bee, alcoholic 

 beverages, and ice. Cold foods: pork, nonaro- 

 matic avocado, manioc, jicama, lima, hog plum, 

 watermelon, melon, papaya, and guava. Inform- 

 ants disagree concerning the lime and the tomato. 



85 The general distribution and the strength of this notion in 

 exclusively mestizo areas suggest that it is of European intro- 

 duction. In passing, it may be noted that, in 1581, a Spanish 

 official, -writing a report on a Totonac pueblo of the Sierra is 

 perfectly cognizant of this classification, for he remarks that a 

 certain plant, "cacaguasuchil," is added to chocolate, "so that the 

 coldness of the cacao may not be injurious" (Relacion de 

 Hueytlalpan). 



The concept of hot and cold foods evidently extends to South 

 America. In northern Peru, Gillin (p. 54) encountered this 

 division of foods, but regards it as "something embedded in the 

 matrix of curative magic." 



In Tajin, no one seems particularly preoccupied 

 with this aspect of foods, but several characteris- 

 tic statements follow : 



The honey of the wild bee is hot ; if one takes a glass, 

 he may run a fever. 



Honey [of the introduced bee] is very hot and is in- 

 jurious if eaten alone ; mixed with water, it does no harm. 



Cooked, dry squash [calabaza] is very hot. One 

 should not eat preserve or atole made of it and then drink 

 cold water. It affects the kidneys. 



Avocado [which is cold] does no harm if eaten with 

 chili, salt, or tortilla. But if taken alone, it causes 

 diarrhea. However, the aromatic avocado is very hot 

 and does no harm. 



SAMPLE MENUS 



Below are a few observations concerning meals 

 eaten by the head of the family in several house- 

 holds. The latter are numbered. Families 21 

 and 28 are of better than average means; family 

 35 is impoverished and probably undernourished ; 

 the others perhaps may be considered representa- 

 tive. 



The data are by no means as precise as they 

 should be, nor are they as extensive. However, 

 they give a fair idea of random sampling in a 

 number of homes. In no case is a feast involved, 

 and in no case were we expected as guests. Almost 

 without exception, the "coffee" is the local 

 charred maize substitute (p. 163). Since most of 

 our observations were made during cool weather, 

 atole is scarcely mentioned ; it enjoys greatest pop- 

 ularity when the temperature soars. 



Breakfast 



No. 20. 6 plantains, each cut in 4 slices and fried ; coffee. 



No. 20. Oorditas (p. 154) (not counted) with chili 

 sauce; coffee. 



No. 20. 10 enchiladas; coffee. 



No. 21. 18 tortillas ; 2 eggs ; 2 cups coffee. 



No. 28. 12 plain tortillas; 6 enchiladas (in this case, 

 tortillas, with chili sauce, sprinkled with cheese) ; plate 

 of beans ; 2 cups coffee. 



No. 35. Tortillas (not counted) with chili sauce; coffee. 



No. 43. Tortillas (not counted) with chili sauce; 1 

 egg ; coffee. 



No. 43. Tortillas (not counted) with chili sauce; chick- 

 en broth (the latter a gift of a neighbor). 



Dinner 



No. 16. 4 enchiladas (in this case, tortillas fried with 

 wild chili and tomato), served with small amount of 

 cracklings; less than 1 cup fermented atole. 



No. 16. 6 tortillas; 1 plate of beans; 1 cup fermented 

 atole. 



