THE TAJIN TOTONAC PART 1 KELLY AND PALERM 



167 



Figures given by housewives for nixtamal con- 

 sumption were converted into the maize require- 

 ments for the family over a period of 6 months 

 (harvest to harvest). Later, they were converted 

 into the daily maize consumption per individual. 86 

 Estimates range from 0.44 to 1.10 liters of maize 

 per day for each adult, with an average of 0.732. 

 One family (No. 35) has been excluded because its 

 consumption was so far below normal that it would 

 have warped the average unduly; its daily maize 

 requirement is only 0.27 liters per individual. 

 However, in this particular household, the banana 

 consumption is said to be unusually high, and the 

 head of the family, probably untruthfully (for he 

 is notorious as a poor provider) , claims that bread 

 is eaten with great frequency. 



In order to have basis for comparison with other 

 areas, and with Mexico as a whole, our five 

 samples of white corn have been weighed. The 

 standard liter measure, not the variable one used 

 in Tajin, weighs from 750 to 790 gm. per liter, 

 with an average at 770. Accordingly, it may be 

 said that maize consumption in Tajin ranges ap- 

 proximately from 339 to 847 gm. a day, with the 

 average at 564 gm. for each adult. 



This is somewhat lower than the figure given 

 for the Maya (1.31 pounds: 640 gm.) (Steggerda, 

 p. 127). Both Maya and Totonac estimates in- 

 clude maize fed in the form of tortillas to cats and 

 dogs; and the Totonac figure includes also the 

 small amount of maize dough given to small 

 chicks. As noted above, in Tajin these probably 

 are more than compensated for by maize dishes 

 which are not based on nixtamal. 



For Mexico at large, the average maize con- 

 sumption is said to be 0.28 kg. (280 gm.) daily, 

 and many "people of low economic status consume 

 as much as 700 gm. of corn in this fashion" (Har- 

 ris, p. 974) , 87 The Totonac average, based on a 

 relatively small number of cases, is about double 

 that for Mexico as a whole. This probably is 

 as it should be, since maize is the chief food. 

 As a matter of fact, the general average probably 



80 In this calculation, children of less than 1 year of age 

 have been disregarded ; those from 1 to 4 years have been counted 

 as half ; and children of 5 years and more have been classed with 

 adults. 



87 We question the coupling of "low economic" status with 

 high maize consumption. The Maya, and perhaps the Totonac, 

 are among the heaviest maize consumers in Mexico, yet their 

 general economic condition is far better than is that of most 

 other Indians and of a good many mestizos. 



is somewhat deceptive. In many parts of Mexico, 

 beans are extremely important; in others, corn is 

 the mainstay. Moreover, the average must have 

 been lowered appreciably by the inclusion of urban 

 areas, where bread shares the honors with tortillas. 

 It would be more meaningful if we could have 

 separate figures for rural and urban zones. 



In addition to maize, many other local foods 

 provide the Totonac with starch. Of these, the 

 banana and plantain are most important, followed 

 by cucurbits and a series of starchy roots, and 

 tubers (pp. 155-157). Moreover, crackers, spa- 

 ghetti, and other paste preparations are popular, 

 and bread is an occasional modest luxury. On the 

 whole, the Totonac are abundantly supplied with 

 starches. 



Sugar likewise is plentiful. The present-day 

 role of honey in the diet is very minor, but cane 

 is one of the principal crops, and a highly palata- 

 ble brown sugar is prepared from its juice. In all 

 the households with which we are acquainted, this 

 brown sugar is used generously. Five families 

 were able to give approximate estimates of their 

 annual consumption of brown sugar : 



Annual consumption in terms of 

 Number of per- mancuernas 



sons in family ' 



Family No. : Total Per individual 



3 4.5 100 22.2 



21 13 276 21.2 



23 5 130 26.0 



27 9 352 39. 1 



42 4 104 26.0 



1 Children of less than 1 year have been disregarded ; those 

 from 1 to 4 years have been counted as half ; and children of 5 

 years and more are classed with adults. 



Even if the estimates were accurate, it would 

 be difficult to express the mancuerna in terms of 

 weight. It is said that there are two sizes, one 

 weighing slightly less than a kilogram, and one 

 weighing approximately 1.5 kg.; one selected at 

 random weighs 1.1 kg. If we take this arbitrary 

 figure, it may be said that, on the basis of data 

 from only five families, the annual consumption 

 of brown sugar per person ranges from about 23 

 to 43 kg. All but one of the cases cluster about 

 the lower figure, and it seems likely that family 

 No. 27 overestimated its consumption. Inciden- 

 tally, the lowest estimate is that given by family 

 No. 21, which happens to be one of the more pros- 

 perous, better-fed households. 



This lowest figure (23 kg.) is equivalent to about 

 51 pounds. The annual consumption of refined 



