78 BULLETIN OI^ The BUREAU OI^ FISHERIES. 



polished on the outside, there is seen to be an almost exact dividing line between the 

 smaller brilliantly iridescent portion and the larger merely lustrous portion. Muckets 

 and related shells produce no iridescent buttons. Some may be obtained from the blue- 

 point, three-ridge, and washboard, but these are often not otherwise up to grade in 

 quality. Buttons from these shells often require bleaching, and it has been observed 

 that the process of bleaching increases the degree of iridescence. 



Although iridescents, when carefully selected, command a good premium, they are 

 comparatively too few to make it generally worth while to work particularly for them. 

 Care must be taken that the entire button is cut from the iridescent portion without 

 overlapping of the forward portion of the shell. As a rule, no special effort is made 

 to cut them, but as a number are cut incidentally, a premium may be paid to the sorters 

 to separate them from the others. In consequence a limited number of clear iridescents 

 are obtained which can be sold at a good price. When ordinary buttons of good grade 

 were bringing 38 to 40 cents per gross, iridescents would bring 75 cents. Indeed, if 

 there were any regularity of supply the price could undoubtedly be raised much higher 

 and still the demand be good. 



Bleaching and Dyeing. — References have previously been made to the preva- 

 lence of stained, spotted, or otherwise discolored shells. Such shells or portions of shells 

 constitute a considerable proportion of the undesirable waste. Manufacturers have 

 long striven to find proper processes of removing the discoloration without detriment 

 to the quality of the product. Old methods of bleaching embraced the use of alkalies 

 which injured the shell and caused the buttons to disintegrate or to break in the laun- 

 dries. Hence bleaching came into disfavor in the trade, and some purchasers decline 

 to purchase buttons believed to have been bleached. Bleaching as now generally 

 practiced, however, is not injurious. Factories employing this process have each their 

 own peculiar formulas or methods, but until very recently the essentials of the process 

 were probably the same in most plants — peroxide, chloride of lime, and heat, with 

 variations in the degree of heat and the period of action. Other chemicals are now 

 employed in secret processes which seem to be very effective. 



Without bleaching, discolored buttons may be used to advantage for the produc- 

 tion of smoked-pearl buttons, which are blackened by staining with sulphur and silver 

 nitrate. Various dyes are also used in the production of fancy buttons of bright colors, 

 as red, green, or blue, to suit the capricious demands of fashion. Some are now being 

 so treated chemically as to produce an excellent imitation of the buttons made from the 

 Trocha shells of Japan, but with better finish. Many shells in nature have beautiful 

 colorings of purple, salmon, or pink, but the shades are not adapted to market demands, 

 and it is claimed that the colors are liable to fade unevenly. Consequently, beautiful 

 as some shells appear in natural condition, they must be classed as waste unless some 

 effective process of bleaching or staining be applied. 



Carding, Packing, and SaIvE. — Certain factories work for the bulk trade — that is, 

 for the supply of garment manufacturers who do not require the goods carded; others 

 for the carded trade exclusively, while some are prepared to supply both. 



If the bulk trade is supplied, it remains after sorting only to pack and ship ; other- 

 wise, the buttons must be attached to suitable cards. Sometimes the sewing is done 

 in the factory; in other cases, more so in the past than at present, buttons are given out 

 to women at home who wish to earn pin money at spare moments. 



