CHRYSANTHEMUMS 293 
hot-bed ; but they will root readily enough in a close frame. We prefer 
the plan of striking singly in thumb-pots, as the plants receive no check 
when repotted. The cuttings should be about 2 inches long, and taken 
from the suckers that start around the base of the main stem as soon as 
they are large enough. 
After the flowers have died off a large number of suckers start from 
the old stool. These, when a couple of inches high, form the best 
cuttings, and some of them will be found to have formed roots. They 
will get on rapidly, and if the shoots are stopped a few times, will form 
fine bushy plants that will bear abundance of bloom. After taking off 
these suckers the old stool is thrown on the rubbish-heap. Should tall 
standards be required for exhibition purposes, the suckers must not be 
stopped. 
Another method adopted where bushes are required is to cut down 
the old stem to about 6 inches soon after flowering, and in the new year 
| to divide the stool with its suckers into from three to six portions, and 
; plant these out at distances varying according to the object in view. 
: : i celien Chrysanthemums are very hungry plants, and he who 
= would produce fine flowers must feed his plants liberally. 
_ He can scarcely make the compost too rich for them. They are also 
thirsty plants, and require regular waterings, but every precaution must 
be adopted to prevent souring of the soil by the stagnation of any surplus 
water, The potting soil for young plants should consist of good rough 
: loam two parts, well-rotted manure, of which cow-dung is an appreciable 
: constituent, one part. To these ingredients should be added a little 
4 ‘sand and a little soot, also a few crushed bones. The plants should not 
be allowed to become pot-bound, but should be shifted on into larger pots 
until an eight- or nine-inch pot has been reached. The new earth should be 
well rammed in at each potting. When the flower-buds are beginning to 
expand, liquid manure, or a dose of some patent or chemical manure, such 
as Clay’s Fertiliser, or nitrate of soda, should be given periodically. When 
grown in the bed or border the soil should be enriched a little while 
before the plants are put in, mulching in hot dry weather, and feeding 
with liquid manure just before flowering. A good plan is to grow them 
three or four feet apart where they can obtain plenty of air and sunshine, 
carefully lift them without injuring the roots, late in September, and 
_ pot them. They should then be removed to a shaded greenhouse 
and kept close until quite re-established. They will then flower with 
vigour. 
The specimens that are grown in pots from the beginning must be 
housed in cool frames or conservatories through the winter, gradually 
11.— 33 : 
