TENNESSEE AND ADJOINING DISTRICTS. 71 



on to that of Tennessee on the north (see Map, fig. 1, facing p. 74). 

 We shall have to discuss the mode of formation of this remark- 

 able gorge later on. The Cumberland Plateau has a breadth of 

 about forty miles north of Chattanooga (lat. 35° 15' IS".), and it 

 breaks off along the north-western margin in a precipitous and 

 lofty escarpment, as along the valley of East Tennessee, but much 

 indented by valleys and coves ; while the south-eastern escarpment 

 is seldom broken, but sweeps along the banks of the river in a 

 nearly direct or gracefully-curving line, the indentations of the 

 streams being hardly noticeable *. 



The Cumberland Table-land is the southerly prolongation of the 

 Appalachian Mountains ; and, though deeply indented by the Cum- 

 berland River and its branches in the North-west, is nowhere 

 absolutely cut through by these streams ; so that it is only in the 

 gorge of the Tennessee, close to Chattanooga, that the complete 

 intersection of the range is effected. To the south of this gorge 

 the table-land continues into Northern Alabama, till the Carboni- 

 ferous strata sink down and disappear beneath those of Cretaceous 

 and Tertiary age which border the shores of the Gulf of Mexico. 

 Several terraced and nearly isolated hills, portions of a once con- 

 tinuous plateau, occur along the Tennessee near Chattanooga, of 

 which " Lookout Point," rising abruptly from the river-bank to a 

 height of 212(5 feet above the sea. or 1450 feet above the stream, is 

 the most conspicuous example (see Map, fig. 1). 



The average elevation of the Cumberland Plateau may be ta1\en 

 at 2000 feet above the surface of the ocean, and 1350 feet above the 

 Tennessee River at Chattanooga ; but towards Pennsylvania on 

 the north, at Cross Mountain, it rises to about 2800 feet t, where 

 its structure becomes more complicated. Confining our attention, 

 however, to the region of Tennessee and the borders of Kentucky, 

 we observe that this table-land has the character of a well- 

 defined plateau, formed of massive grit and conglomerate, or 

 other strata, of Upper- Carboniferous age, and intersected by deep 

 ravines, which open out to the south and west, and form the 

 channels of streams draining into the Tennessee, the Cumberland, 

 and the Ohio. (See Sections, figs. 2 and 3.) 



Over its whole surface and its flanks this table-land is enveloped 

 in almost continuous virgin forest, consisting of trees of great 

 variety and often of noble stature, with an undergrowth of smaller 

 plants. Nearly fifty varieties of forest-trees may here be counted, 

 including, amongst others, cedars, pines, maples, chestnuts, satin- 

 wood, poplars, and oak of several varieties. These forests give 

 cover to many wild animals, including pumas, bears, deer, hogs, and 

 smaller game. Rattlesnakes and other venomous reptiles lie con- 

 cealed under the fallen logs, and at night the groves and low-lying 

 woods at the foot of the plateau are lighted up by myriads of 

 fire-flies, while the air is resonant with the croaking of the 



*■ According to Professor Safford. 



t In Waldeii's Ridge, east of the Sequachee Valley, there are tracts reaching 

 the 2300 or 2400 feet level. 



