LAKE TITICACA 141 



selves to circumstances, I don't wonder that Darwin has 

 taken the bent toward natural selection. 



On my way back from the nitrate beds to Pisagua, I 

 rode on horseback through the whole ground once oc- 

 cupied by the sea, and was able to follow it step by step 

 as it receded or as the land rose. At Pisagua I had a 

 couple of days which I spent in packing my collections 

 and in digging up a few Indian graves, from which I 

 collected a very fair sample of the contents of these 

 graves of this part of Peru for the Archaeological Mu- 

 seum. As they are identical in time with those of Arica, 

 I spent my time at Pisagua, where I was comfortably 

 established at the house of a Mr. Jones, the manager of 

 one of the large companies of Nitrate. I must say the 

 hospitality of the people on this coast is something over- 

 powering. Since I left Valparaiso I have only spent three 

 or four nights in a hotel ; you go as a matter of course 

 to people to whom you have letters of introduction ; they 

 would think it very strange if you did otherwise ; and 

 then not only do they take you in, but they literally 

 devote themselves to you and make out your itinerary, 

 pass you on to their friends, who in their turn do the 

 same ; and so it goes from one friend to another. Were 

 this not the custom you would have the pleasure of spend- 

 ing your nights in the open air or in the huts of work- 

 men, sleeping on the bare floor and living on bread and 

 water. 



The revolution in Peru is now completely ended so I 

 shall have no delays on that score. We took in at Ho 

 the greater part of the soldiers who had been left to 

 watch the revolution, such a looking set of wild Indians 

 I never saw. I should think the Government would want 

 a second army to watch the first. They must be glad 



