CHAPTER X 



1885-1890 

 MOKE WANDERINGS AND WORK 



Agassiz's usual winter pilgrimage led him in 1885 

 to the Sandwich Islands, whose hospitable shores were 

 in those days ruled by that genial and unconventional 

 monarch, Kalakaua, who was only too ready on the 

 slightest provocation to throw off the burdens of roy- 

 alty. Agassiz spent the greater part of the winter roam- 

 ing among the islands, sometimes a guest on some great 

 sugar plantation, sometimes exploring the wonderfully 

 picturesque gorges in which the islands abound, visiting 

 the volcanoes, or studying the coral reefs, often in some 

 native outrigged canoe, which his Hawaiian fishermen 

 skilfully steered along the edge of the breakers pound- 

 ing on the reef flat. 



Honolulu, Jan. 27, 1885. 

 " I arrived here on time after a good passage as com- 

 pared to an Atlantic one, but in spite of this I was more 

 seasick than I remember having been for a long time. 

 I have spent the time thus far in making up for my lost 

 meals and riding and rowing round the island. The 

 scenery is very pretty, and there are endless trips to be 

 made and a great deal to see. Thus far I have done 

 nothing except have a good time, and when I get back 

 from my trip to the other islands I expect to spend my 

 time in looking up the coral reefs and something of the 



