368 ALEXANDER AGASSIZ 



Albatross, Funafuti, Dec. 25th, 1899. 



" Little did I expect when leaving Fiji two years ago, 

 to be spending Xmas at anchor in this atoll. We left 

 Suva the 19th and steamed among our old island friends, 

 and the following morning were bidding farewell to the 

 last outlying reefs and islands, and Ngele Levu was 

 the end of all Fiji Islands. Ever since leaving Suva the 

 weather has been superb, getting gradually hotter and 

 to-day is the warmest day we have had. The water in 

 the atoll is 89 and the air is about 104 — and as it 's 

 pretty moist atmosphere, it is warm enough even for me. 



I found Funafuti just as different from other atolls 

 as possible, and I have been here for three days mous- 

 ing round and getting the hang of the schoolhouse. I 

 have now got hold of the structure of the place and 

 understand it, and as far as I go it 's all on my side. 

 But I begin to see how useless it is to discuss coral 

 islands between people who have not seen the same 

 thing. I could not make out what David, Sollas, and 

 Gardiner meant until I had seen Funafuti — it 's so dif- 

 ferent from all other atolls, and unless I had my ex- 

 perience to go upon it would be hopeless for me to give 

 a natural explanation, and I should be groping round 

 and talking in the air. It was very funny going round 

 the shores to find the tracks of the David and Sollas 

 party where they had broken off samples of the reef 

 ledges ! two years ago. I go off at six a.m., get back at 

 eleven, and off again at four till night. . . . 



The people here are very primitive, wearing grass 

 skirts, and their houses very different from any we have 

 seen, all open except mats which they drop like rattan 

 mats against rain or sun. They raise a floor, upon which 

 they sleep, about two feet. They live on chicken, pigs, 



