﻿234 
  SOUTH 
  AMERICAN 
  INDIANS 
  [B. 
  A. 
  E. 
  Bull. 
  143 
  

  

  able 
  for 
  garments 
  in 
  the 
  Highlands. 
  Tailored 
  clothing 
  was 
  unknown, 
  

   and 
  the 
  only 
  fastenings 
  used, 
  aside 
  from 
  the 
  straight 
  seams 
  which 
  

   joined 
  the 
  edges 
  of 
  woven 
  rectangles, 
  were 
  straight 
  metal 
  pins. 
  

  

  Men's 
  garments. 
  — 
  The 
  ordinary 
  man's 
  dress 
  consisted 
  of 
  a 
  breech- 
  

   clout 
  and 
  a 
  sleeveless 
  tunic, 
  with 
  a 
  large 
  cloak 
  for 
  cold 
  weather 
  and 
  

   dress 
  occasions. 
  The 
  breechclout 
  was 
  a 
  strip 
  of 
  cloth 
  about 
  6 
  inches 
  

   (15 
  cm.) 
  wide 
  which 
  passed 
  between 
  the 
  legs 
  and 
  over 
  a 
  narrow 
  belt 
  

   in 
  front 
  and 
  back, 
  with 
  the 
  ends 
  hanging 
  part 
  way 
  down 
  the 
  thighs. 
  

   It 
  was 
  a 
  symbol 
  of 
  manhood, 
  put 
  on 
  at 
  the 
  age 
  of 
  about 
  14 
  as 
  part 
  of 
  

   a 
  maturity 
  rite 
  (waracikoy, 
  "putting 
  on 
  the 
  breechclout". 
  See 
  p. 
  

   283). 
  The 
  sleeveless 
  tunic 
  (onko) 
  consisted 
  of 
  a 
  long 
  piece 
  of 
  cloth 
  

   with 
  a 
  slit 
  in 
  the 
  middle 
  for 
  the 
  head 
  (pi. 
  80, 
  top). 
  It 
  was 
  doubled 
  

   over, 
  sacklike, 
  and 
  the 
  sides 
  sewn 
  up 
  leaving 
  spaces 
  at 
  the 
  top 
  for 
  the 
  

   arms. 
  It 
  reached 
  nearly 
  to 
  the 
  knees. 
  In 
  certain 
  ceremonial 
  cos- 
  

   tumes, 
  a 
  longer 
  ankle-length 
  tunic 
  was 
  worn. 
  Fine 
  tunics 
  might 
  be 
  

   decorated 
  all 
  over, 
  but 
  the 
  usual 
  design 
  was 
  an 
  inverted 
  triangle 
  at 
  

   the 
  neck 
  and 
  a 
  broad 
  band 
  around 
  the 
  waist 
  and 
  the 
  lower 
  edge. 
  

   The 
  band 
  at 
  the 
  waist 
  often 
  consisted 
  of 
  rows 
  of 
  small 
  squares, 
  each 
  

   containing 
  a 
  geometric 
  design 
  of 
  the 
  sort 
  used 
  on 
  war 
  shields, 
  which 
  

   probably 
  had 
  heraldic 
  significance. 
  (For 
  illustrations, 
  see 
  Bandelier, 
  

   1910, 
  pis. 
  62 
  and 
  69; 
  Montell, 
  1929, 
  figs. 
  87, 
  88, 
  and 
  references, 
  

   pp. 
  194-5). 
  

  

  Over 
  the 
  tunic, 
  men 
  wore 
  a 
  large 
  cloak 
  about 
  6 
  by 
  5 
  feet 
  (190 
  by 
  

   150 
  cm.) 
  in 
  size. 
  It 
  was 
  made 
  of 
  two 
  strips 
  of 
  cloth 
  sewn 
  together 
  up 
  

   the 
  middle 
  like 
  the 
  mantles 
  worn 
  by 
  present-day 
  Indian 
  women. 
  It 
  

   was 
  either 
  thrown 
  over 
  the 
  shoulders 
  with 
  two 
  corners 
  tied 
  over 
  the 
  

   chest 
  or 
  tied 
  over 
  one 
  shoulder 
  to 
  leave 
  an 
  arm 
  free. 
  The 
  cloak 
  was 
  

   removed 
  during 
  violent 
  exercise. 
  

  

  Under 
  the 
  cloak 
  but 
  over 
  the 
  tunic, 
  men 
  carried 
  a 
  small 
  coca 
  bag 
  

   about 
  8 
  inches 
  (20 
  cm.) 
  square, 
  hung 
  over 
  the 
  left 
  shoulder 
  and 
  under 
  

   the 
  right 
  arm. 
  It 
  held 
  amulets, 
  small 
  tools, 
  and 
  anything 
  the 
  wearer 
  

   wanted 
  to 
  carry, 
  as 
  well 
  as 
  his 
  coca. 
  (For 
  illustrations 
  of 
  men's 
  dress, 
  

   see 
  Poma, 
  1936, 
  especially 
  pp. 
  115, 
  145, 
  159.) 
  

  

  The 
  Inca 
  ordinarily 
  wore 
  sandals 
  of 
  un 
  tanned 
  leather 
  with 
  elaborate 
  

   woolen 
  fastenings. 
  Guaman 
  Poma 
  illustrates 
  sandals 
  with 
  one 
  cord 
  

   crossing 
  the 
  top 
  of 
  the 
  toes 
  and 
  another 
  running 
  from 
  the 
  top 
  of 
  the 
  

   foot, 
  through 
  a 
  loop 
  in 
  the 
  side 
  of 
  the 
  sole, 
  passing 
  around 
  the 
  heel 
  and 
  

   through 
  another 
  loop 
  on 
  the 
  other 
  side 
  to 
  the 
  top 
  of 
  the 
  foot, 
  where 
  

   the 
  cOrd 
  ends 
  were 
  elaborately 
  fastened 
  (Poma, 
  1936, 
  pp. 
  145, 
  161, 
  

   362). 
  The 
  cords 
  were 
  of 
  braided 
  wool 
  with 
  a 
  pile 
  surface 
  for 
  softness. 
  

   The 
  soles 
  were 
  made 
  of 
  llama-neck 
  hide 
  and 
  were 
  cut 
  a 
  little 
  shorter 
  

   than 
  the 
  foot. 
  Because 
  the 
  leather 
  was 
  untanned, 
  the 
  sandals 
  had 
  

   to 
  be 
  removed 
  in 
  wet 
  weather, 
  as 
  the 
  sole 
  softened 
  in 
  water. 
  Sandal 
  

   tops 
  were 
  sometimes 
  decorated 
  with 
  gold 
  masks. 
  

   -■ 
  In 
  some 
  parts 
  of 
  the 
  southern 
  Highlands, 
  moccasins 
  were 
  some- 
  

  

  