﻿236 
  SOUTH 
  AMERICAN 
  INDIANS 
  [B. 
  A. 
  E. 
  Bull. 
  143 
  

  

  Ornaments. 
  — 
  Both 
  sexes 
  wore 
  jewelry 
  of 
  several 
  kinds. 
  AH 
  men 
  of 
  

   royal 
  lineage 
  and 
  "Inca 
  by 
  privilege" 
  wore 
  large 
  cylindrical 
  ear- 
  

   plugs 
  of 
  gold, 
  wood, 
  or 
  other 
  materials 
  which 
  had 
  a 
  large 
  round 
  head 
  

   on 
  one 
  end 
  about 
  2 
  inches 
  (5 
  cm.) 
  in 
  diameter. 
  These 
  were 
  worn 
  

   through 
  the 
  ear 
  lobes 
  with 
  the 
  head 
  facing 
  forward. 
  Boys' 
  ears 
  were 
  

   pierced 
  for 
  these 
  plugs 
  when 
  they 
  put 
  on 
  their 
  breechclouts, 
  about 
  

   the 
  age 
  of 
  14. 
  Many 
  other 
  Andean 
  peoples 
  used 
  similar 
  earplugs, 
  

   distinguished 
  in 
  material 
  or 
  design 
  from 
  those 
  of 
  the 
  Inca, 
  which 
  were 
  

   insignia 
  of 
  rank. 
  

  

  Men 
  wore 
  also 
  wide 
  gold 
  or 
  silver 
  bracelets, 
  and 
  metal 
  disks 
  hung 
  

   around 
  their 
  necks 
  or 
  on 
  their 
  heads. 
  The 
  latter 
  were 
  state 
  awards 
  

   for 
  bravery 
  in 
  war. 
  Miniature 
  gold 
  masks 
  were 
  also 
  worn 
  occasion- 
  

   ally 
  on 
  the 
  sandals, 
  the 
  shoulder, 
  or 
  at 
  the 
  knees. 
  [Soldiers 
  wore 
  

   necklaces 
  of 
  human 
  teeth 
  taken 
  by 
  themselves 
  or 
  their 
  ancestors 
  

   from 
  slain 
  enemies. 
  In 
  some 
  festivals, 
  they 
  wore 
  feather 
  crowns 
  or 
  

   collars. 
  

  

  Women 
  did 
  not 
  pierce 
  their 
  ears 
  or 
  wear 
  any 
  kind 
  of 
  earrings. 
  

   Their 
  only 
  jewelry 
  was 
  their 
  pins 
  (tuptj) 
  and 
  necklaces 
  of 
  shell 
  or 
  

   bone 
  beads. 
  Noble 
  women 
  are 
  often 
  represented 
  on 
  lacquered 
  

   wooden 
  cups 
  with 
  flowers 
  in 
  their 
  hands. 
  14 
  

  

  Hair 
  styles. 
  — 
  Inca 
  men 
  cut 
  their 
  hair, 
  probably 
  with 
  obsidian 
  

   knives. 
  They 
  wore 
  bangs 
  over 
  the 
  forehead 
  and 
  a 
  long 
  bob 
  behind 
  

   which 
  covered 
  the 
  ears. 
  Women 
  wore 
  their 
  hair 
  long 
  (fig. 
  26, 
  c), 
  

   parted 
  in 
  the 
  middle 
  and 
  falling 
  straight 
  down 
  the 
  back. 
  (Cobo, 
  

   1890-95, 
  bk. 
  14, 
  ch. 
  2; 
  Poma, 
  1936, 
  pp. 
  120, 
  136; 
  Garcilaso, 
  1723, 
  

   pt. 
  1, 
  bk. 
  8, 
  ch. 
  13.) 
  Hair 
  styles 
  apparently 
  varied 
  markedly 
  from 
  

   one 
  province 
  to 
  another. 
  Poma 
  shows 
  Rucana 
  and 
  Colla 
  men 
  with 
  

   long 
  hair 
  (1936, 
  pp. 
  169, 
  331). 
  In 
  some 
  areas 
  the 
  women 
  wore 
  two 
  

   big 
  braids 
  or 
  a 
  large 
  number 
  of 
  small 
  ones. 
  The 
  latter 
  style 
  was 
  partic- 
  

   ularly 
  common 
  among 
  the 
  Aymara, 
  and 
  is 
  attested 
  for 
  the 
  Cana 
  by 
  

   hair 
  from 
  a 
  tomb 
  with 
  Collao 
  black-on-red 
  pottery 
  at 
  Tinajani 
  near 
  

   Ayaviri, 
  now 
  in 
  the 
  Secci6n 
  Arqueol6gica, 
  University 
  of 
  Cuzco. 
  

   Both 
  sexes 
  used 
  combs 
  made 
  of 
  a 
  row 
  of 
  thorns 
  tied 
  between 
  two 
  

   slivers 
  of 
  wood 
  (University 
  Museum, 
  Cuzco; 
  see 
  Poma, 
  1936, 
  p. 
  140). 
  

   Women 
  cut 
  their 
  hair 
  only 
  as 
  a 
  sign 
  of 
  mourning 
  or 
  disgrace 
  (Cobo, 
  

   1890-95, 
  bk. 
  14, 
  chs. 
  2, 
  19). 
  Garcilaso 
  mentions 
  hair 
  dyeing 
  (1723, 
  

   pt. 
  1, 
  bk. 
  8, 
  ch. 
  13). 
  

  

  Deformation. 
  — 
  Head 
  deformation, 
  though 
  not 
  universal 
  in 
  the 
  

   Inca 
  Empire, 
  was 
  widely 
  practiced 
  by 
  both 
  Coastal 
  and 
  Highland 
  

   people. 
  The 
  Aymara 
  produced 
  long 
  heads 
  by 
  binding 
  the 
  heads 
  of 
  

   babies 
  with 
  cloths; 
  this 
  shape 
  (called 
  q'ayto-oma, 
  "string 
  head") 
  

  

  " 
  The 
  above 
  description 
  of 
  Inca 
  costume 
  is 
  taken 
  from 
  Cobo, 
  1890-95, 
  bk. 
  14, 
  ch. 
  2, 
  with 
  additional 
  details 
  

   from 
  Guaman 
  Poma's 
  illustrations. 
  Further 
  references 
  and 
  illustrative 
  material 
  may 
  be 
  found 
  in 
  Montell 
  

   (1929). 
  The 
  coca 
  bag 
  and 
  sandals 
  are 
  the 
  only 
  elements 
  of 
  ancient 
  costume 
  still 
  generally 
  used 
  by 
  Indian 
  

   men, 
  although 
  the 
  tunic 
  is 
  occasionally 
  worn 
  for 
  festivals 
  in 
  some 
  towns. 
  Women 
  still 
  use 
  variations 
  on 
  

   the 
  mantle, 
  head 
  cloth, 
  and 
  tupu. 
  

  

  