﻿Vol.2] 
  INC 
  A 
  CULTURE 
  ROWE 
  241 
  

  

  (Cobo, 
  1890-95, 
  bk. 
  14, 
  ch. 
  11). 
  Bat 
  wool 
  is 
  very 
  short 
  staple 
  to 
  be 
  

   successfully 
  woven. 
  

  

  Wool 
  was 
  used 
  both 
  in 
  its 
  natural 
  colors 
  and 
  dyed 
  with 
  vegetable 
  

   dyes, 
  an 
  enormous 
  variety 
  of 
  which 
  were 
  used 
  by 
  the 
  Highland 
  Indians. 
  

   The 
  wool 
  was 
  always 
  dyed 
  before 
  spinning 
  according 
  to 
  Cobo 
  (1890-95, 
  

   bk. 
  14, 
  ch. 
  11). 
  Plants 
  for 
  dyes 
  were 
  gathered 
  by 
  girls, 
  9 
  to 
  12 
  years 
  

   old, 
  too 
  young 
  to 
  do 
  full 
  adult 
  work 
  (Poma, 
  1936, 
  p. 
  228). 
  

  

  Spinning. 
  — 
  Spinning 
  was 
  done 
  mostly 
  by 
  the 
  women, 
  who 
  amused 
  

   themselves 
  with 
  it 
  when 
  out 
  walking 
  as 
  well 
  as 
  in 
  the 
  intervals 
  of 
  

   other 
  housework. 
  The 
  wool 
  to 
  be 
  spun 
  was 
  wound 
  on 
  the 
  wrist 
  or 
  

   held 
  on 
  a 
  distaff, 
  which 
  consisted 
  of 
  a 
  stick 
  perhaps 
  8 
  inches 
  (20 
  cm.) 
  

   long 
  with 
  two 
  horns 
  on 
  the 
  top 
  in 
  the 
  shape 
  of 
  two-thirds 
  of 
  a 
  ring. 
  

   The 
  spindle 
  was 
  a 
  straight 
  stick 
  a 
  little 
  longer 
  than 
  the 
  distaff 
  with 
  a 
  

   wooden 
  or 
  pottery 
  whorl. 
  The 
  distaff 
  was 
  held 
  in 
  the 
  left 
  hand 
  and 
  

   the 
  thread 
  pulled 
  out 
  and 
  formed 
  with 
  the 
  right 
  hand, 
  the 
  spindle 
  

   hanging 
  free 
  in 
  the 
  air 
  or 
  with 
  one 
  end 
  resting 
  in 
  a 
  pottery 
  plate. 
  The 
  

   thread 
  was 
  usually 
  spun 
  clockwise, 
  except 
  in 
  manufacturing 
  articles 
  

   to 
  be 
  used 
  in 
  sorcery. 
  The 
  spun 
  thread 
  was 
  doubled 
  and 
  twisted 
  

   counter 
  clockwise 
  to 
  prepare 
  it 
  for 
  weaving. 
  Men, 
  especially 
  old 
  

   men, 
  often 
  helped 
  the 
  women 
  twist 
  the 
  thread. 
  (Cobo, 
  1890-95, 
  

   bk. 
  12, 
  ch. 
  11; 
  Garcilaso, 
  1723, 
  pt. 
  1, 
  bk. 
  4, 
  ch. 
  13; 
  Poma, 
  1936, 
  p. 
  298; 
  

   archeological 
  specimens 
  in 
  Cuzco 
  collections.) 
  

  

  Looms. 
  — 
  Three 
  kinds 
  of 
  looms 
  were 
  used. 
  The 
  first 
  or 
  belt 
  loom 
  

   appeared 
  earliest 
  in 
  the 
  Mochica 
  culture 
  of 
  the 
  North 
  Coast 
  (Montell, 
  

   1929, 
  p. 
  Ill; 
  Means, 
  1931, 
  fig. 
  2). 
  It 
  consisted 
  of 
  two 
  parallel 
  rods 
  

   which 
  supported 
  the 
  warp, 
  one 
  of 
  which 
  was 
  fastened 
  to 
  a 
  tree 
  or 
  

   post 
  while 
  the 
  other 
  was 
  furnished 
  with 
  a 
  belt 
  which 
  passed 
  around 
  

   the 
  waist 
  of 
  the 
  weaver, 
  who 
  sat 
  or 
  knelt 
  in 
  front 
  of 
  his 
  (or 
  her) 
  work 
  

   and 
  varied 
  the 
  tension 
  on 
  the 
  warp 
  by 
  shifting 
  his 
  own 
  weight 
  (fig. 
  

   27, 
  d). 
  This 
  type 
  of 
  loom 
  is 
  illustrated 
  by 
  Poma 
  for 
  the 
  Highland 
  

   Indians 
  in 
  general 
  and 
  the 
  Eucana 
  in 
  particular 
  (1936, 
  pp. 
  215, 
  217, 
  

   564, 
  645). 
  

  

  The 
  second 
  or 
  horizontal 
  loom 
  is 
  used 
  principally 
  by 
  the 
  Aymara, 
  

   in 
  modern 
  times. 
  The 
  two 
  horizontal 
  rods 
  which 
  supported 
  the 
  warp 
  

   were 
  fastened 
  some 
  16 
  inches 
  (40 
  cm.) 
  above 
  the 
  ground 
  to 
  stakes. 
  

   The 
  face 
  of 
  the 
  cloth 
  was 
  horizontal 
  and 
  the 
  weaver 
  had 
  to 
  lean 
  over 
  it. 
  

   Both 
  of 
  these 
  types 
  of 
  looms 
  were 
  equipped 
  with 
  a 
  heddle 
  consisting 
  

   of 
  a 
  light 
  rod 
  with 
  loops 
  which 
  passed 
  over 
  alternate 
  warp 
  threads, 
  a 
  

   variety 
  of 
  weave 
  swords 
  for 
  beating 
  down 
  the 
  finished 
  work, 
  pointed 
  

   bone 
  picks, 
  and 
  bobbins. 
  

  

  The 
  third 
  type 
  of 
  loom 
  was 
  a 
  vertical 
  frame 
  of 
  four 
  poles, 
  built 
  

   against 
  a 
  wall, 
  on 
  which 
  qompi 
  was 
  woven 
  (fig. 
  27, 
  c). 
  The 
  weaver 
  

   worked 
  standing. 
  (Cobo, 
  1890-95, 
  bk. 
  14, 
  ch. 
  11; 
  Garcilaso, 
  1723, 
  

   pt. 
  1, 
  bk. 
  5, 
  ch. 
  6; 
  Poma, 
  1936, 
  p. 
  647.) 
  

  

  