﻿Vol.2] 
  COLONIAL 
  QUECHUA 
  — 
  KtJBLER 
  363 
  

  

  Among 
  the 
  women, 
  Indian 
  dress 
  persisted 
  intact 
  at 
  high 
  rank. 
  A 
  

   great 
  lady 
  (coy 
  a) 
  is 
  shown 
  in 
  the 
  Uiclla 
  fastened 
  by 
  a 
  jeweled 
  tupu 
  

   (ibid., 
  p. 
  757). 
  Vazquez 
  de 
  Espinosa 
  notes 
  a 
  few 
  types 
  of 
  regional 
  

   women's 
  headgear. 
  In 
  Los 
  Canas 
  a 
  coiled 
  black 
  scarf 
  was 
  worn, 
  

   but 
  in 
  the 
  Collao, 
  women 
  affected 
  high 
  black 
  woolen 
  bonnets 
  sur- 
  

   mounted 
  by 
  crescent-shaped 
  ornaments 
  (Vazquez 
  de 
  Espinosa, 
  1942, 
  

   pp. 
  602, 
  606). 
  

  

  In 
  1793, 
  Haenke 
  observed 
  that 
  the 
  process 
  had 
  been 
  reversed; 
  

   among 
  ordinary 
  Indians 
  the 
  women's 
  costume 
  was 
  most 
  thoroughly 
  

   Hispanicized, 
  and 
  the 
  men 
  retained 
  old-fashioned 
  dress 
  (Haenke, 
  

   1901, 
  p. 
  100). 
  It 
  may 
  be 
  that 
  in 
  Haenke's 
  time 
  the 
  traditional 
  Indian 
  

   female 
  costume 
  stood 
  much 
  closer 
  to 
  European 
  style 
  than 
  in 
  the 
  17th 
  

   century, 
  and 
  that 
  the 
  men's 
  costume 
  looked 
  Indian 
  because 
  it 
  was 
  

   archaic, 
  retaining 
  many 
  17th-century 
  elements 
  (pi. 
  86) 
  . 
  Such, 
  at 
  least, 
  

   has 
  been 
  the 
  history 
  of 
  peasant 
  costume 
  in 
  Europe. 
  

  

  The 
  dress 
  of 
  the 
  great 
  hereditary 
  Indian 
  curacas 
  in 
  the 
  18th 
  cen- 
  

   tury 
  continued 
  to 
  approximate 
  European 
  court 
  styles 
  (fig. 
  43, 
  p. 
  393) 
  

   An 
  example 
  is 
  given 
  by 
  Tupac 
  Amaru's 
  costume 
  in 
  1781. 
  He 
  wore 
  

   blue 
  velvet 
  suiting 
  with 
  gold 
  braid, 
  a 
  cloak 
  of 
  the 
  same 
  material 
  in 
  

   scarlet, 
  and 
  a 
  three-corned 
  hat 
  over 
  the 
  Inca 
  fringe 
  upon 
  his 
  forehead. 
  

   But 
  over 
  the 
  velvet 
  suit 
  was 
  a 
  richly 
  embroidered 
  unco; 
  and 
  from 
  a 
  

   gold 
  chain 
  at 
  his 
  neck 
  hung 
  a 
  golden 
  figure 
  of 
  the 
  Sun 
  (Angelis, 
  1836- 
  

   37, 
  p. 
  11). 
  

  

  Among 
  ordinary 
  Indians, 
  the 
  poncho 
  (pi. 
  91), 
  which 
  differs 
  from 
  the 
  

   unco 
  in 
  that 
  the 
  side 
  seams 
  are 
  left 
  unsewn, 
  was 
  introduced, 
  probably 
  

   from 
  Chile, 
  in 
  the 
  17th 
  century 
  (Montell, 
  1928, 
  pp. 
  238-42) 
  . 
  The 
  uses 
  

   of 
  the 
  poncho 
  are 
  closely 
  associated 
  with 
  horseback 
  riding. 
  Skinner 
  

   (1805, 
  p. 
  349) 
  points 
  out 
  that 
  it 
  was 
  ultimately 
  adopted 
  by 
  Spanish 
  

   cavalry 
  in 
  Europe, 
  for 
  its 
  protection 
  to 
  horsemen 
  against 
  the 
  weather 
  

   (pis. 
  91, 
  top; 
  92). 
  

  

  MANUFACTURES 
  

  

  No 
  aspect 
  of 
  Colonial 
  life 
  is 
  so 
  poorly 
  studied 
  as 
  its 
  material 
  cul- 
  

   ture. 
  It 
  is 
  impossible 
  at 
  present 
  effectively 
  to 
  distinguish 
  among 
  

   Indian, 
  Mestizo, 
  and 
  Creole 
  productions; 
  the 
  regional 
  manufactures 
  

   are 
  badly 
  confused, 
  and 
  the 
  periods 
  of 
  workmanship 
  show 
  great 
  

   lacunae, 
  especially 
  in 
  the 
  16th 
  and 
  17th 
  centuries. 
  

  

  Of 
  extraordinary 
  importance 
  is 
  the 
  fact 
  that 
  the 
  Quechua 
  communes 
  

   often 
  established 
  and 
  owned 
  community 
  workshops. 
  Mita 
  laborers 
  

   were 
  assigned 
  to 
  these 
  establishments, 
  from 
  which 
  the 
  income 
  was 
  

   reserved 
  for 
  tribute 
  payments. 
  Such 
  workshops 
  were 
  usually 
  given 
  

   to 
  textile 
  production 
  (Pefia, 
  1698, 
  p. 
  332). 
  Nearly 
  every 
  Highland 
  

   province 
  supported 
  textile 
  industries; 
  obrajes 
  are 
  recorded 
  for 
  Cuzco, 
  

   Huaylas, 
  Cajatambo, 
  Conchucos, 
  Huanuco, 
  and 
  Cajamarca 
  Prov- 
  

   inces. 
  (Manso, 
  1859, 
  p. 
  149; 
  Bueno, 
  1763-78, 
  n. 
  p.; 
  Vazquez 
  de 
  

   Espinoza, 
  1942, 
  passim; 
  Zimmern, 
  1944.) 
  

  

  