﻿Vol.2] 
  DIAGUITA 
  OF 
  ARGENTINA 
  — 
  MARQUEZ 
  MIRANDA 
  641 
  

  

  abundant 
  archeological 
  evidence 
  confirm 
  this. 
  Father 
  del 
  Techo 
  

   (1673, 
  p. 
  147) 
  mentions 
  a 
  shirt 
  or 
  camiseta 
  which, 
  according 
  to 
  Fathers 
  

   Romero 
  and 
  Monroy 
  (Torres, 
  1603, 
  fol. 
  16), 
  the 
  natives 
  tied 
  around 
  

   the 
  waist 
  with 
  a 
  belt 
  when 
  they 
  went 
  to 
  war 
  or 
  to 
  hunt. 
  Del 
  Techo 
  

   adds 
  that 
  women's 
  clothes 
  varied 
  according 
  to 
  their 
  social 
  status: 
  

   " 
  Virgins 
  wear 
  painted 
  cloths 
  and 
  those 
  who 
  are 
  no 
  more, 
  plain 
  ones." 
  

   This 
  shirt 
  or 
  camiseta, 
  which 
  some 
  modern 
  archeologists 
  called 
  the 
  

   "tunic," 
  was 
  the 
  principal 
  garment. 
  It 
  was 
  made 
  of 
  woven 
  wool 
  

   of 
  various 
  species 
  of 
  the 
  genus 
  Lama, 
  the 
  finest 
  being 
  of 
  vicuna 
  and 
  

   the 
  more 
  ordinary 
  of 
  llama. 
  Semirealistic 
  rock 
  paintings 
  of 
  human 
  

   beings 
  at 
  Carahuasi 
  and 
  elsewhere 
  in 
  the 
  Diaguita 
  region 
  confirm 
  the 
  

   statements 
  of 
  the 
  Jesuit 
  fathers. 
  The 
  Carahuasi 
  paintings 
  show 
  these 
  

   garments 
  in 
  white 
  and 
  yellow, 
  some 
  ornamented 
  with 
  various 
  colors, 
  

   predominantly 
  red 
  and 
  black. 
  Naturally, 
  we 
  do 
  not 
  know 
  how 
  faithfully 
  

   these 
  pictographs 
  depict 
  reality. 
  They 
  give, 
  however, 
  some 
  \ery 
  val- 
  

   uable 
  data. 
  For 
  instance, 
  they 
  show 
  the 
  shirt 
  as 
  ankle-length, 
  a 
  fact 
  

   which 
  is 
  confirmed 
  by 
  the 
  aforementioned 
  Jesuits 
  and 
  by 
  repeated 
  

   human 
  representations 
  which 
  decorate 
  the 
  funeral 
  urns 
  of 
  Santa 
  Maria. 
  

   (See 
  Ceramics, 
  below.) 
  

  

  Unfortunately, 
  few 
  textiles 
  have 
  been 
  found. 
  Ambrosetti 
  (1896- 
  

   99), 
  Quiroga 
  (1903), 
  and 
  Boman 
  (1908) 
  have 
  found 
  and 
  described 
  

   fragments 
  of 
  ponchos 
  in 
  various 
  sites 
  of 
  the 
  Diaguita 
  area. 
  Out- 
  

   side 
  of 
  the 
  Calchaqui 
  subarea, 
  especially 
  in 
  the 
  region 
  of 
  Angualasto 
  

   (San 
  Juan), 
  textiles 
  have 
  been 
  found 
  in 
  great 
  quantity. 
  Vignati 
  

   (1934) 
  described 
  the 
  clothing 
  of 
  a 
  mummy 
  of 
  Angualasto 
  in 
  a 
  detailed 
  

   monograph. 
  

  

  Petroglyphs, 
  ceramics, 
  and 
  historical 
  sources 
  agree 
  in 
  stressing 
  the 
  

   exceptional 
  importance 
  of 
  the 
  Calchaqui 
  headdress 
  and 
  hairdressmg. 
  

   The 
  Calchaqui 
  wore 
  their 
  hair 
  long. 
  To 
  cut 
  a 
  chief's 
  or 
  warrior's 
  hair 
  

   was 
  a 
  public 
  sign 
  that 
  his 
  status 
  had 
  been 
  lowered. 
  One 
  of 
  the 
  worst 
  

   punishments 
  which 
  the 
  Spaniards 
  could 
  inflict 
  on 
  the 
  defeated 
  Indians 
  

   was 
  to 
  "shave 
  their 
  hair." 
  Hairdress 
  had 
  different 
  shapes. 
  Quiroga 
  

   (1903) 
  described 
  it 
  as 
  "an 
  intricate 
  work," 
  which 
  contrasted 
  with 
  the 
  

   crudeness 
  of 
  the 
  comb 
  used. 
  The 
  latter 
  was 
  made 
  of 
  cactus 
  thorns, 
  

   transversely 
  attached 
  to 
  a 
  central 
  piece. 
  The 
  Indians 
  used 
  feather 
  

   ornaments 
  and 
  woven 
  headbands 
  to 
  fix 
  their 
  hair. 
  Hair 
  was 
  parted 
  

   in 
  the 
  middle 
  and 
  rolled 
  on 
  the 
  sides 
  like 
  the 
  hair 
  of 
  the 
  Hopi 
  girls. 
  

  

  Many 
  skulls 
  are 
  artificially 
  deformed 
  by 
  tabular 
  erecta 
  (fronto- 
  

   vertico-occipital) 
  compression. 
  

  

  Large 
  disks 
  of 
  gold 
  and 
  silver 
  wrought 
  with 
  diverse 
  decorations 
  

   were 
  fastened 
  to 
  the 
  forehead 
  or 
  to 
  the 
  sides 
  of 
  the 
  head 
  or 
  were 
  sewn 
  

   to 
  clothes. 
  Del 
  Techo 
  (1673, 
  p. 
  147) 
  calls 
  them 
  "orbes." 
  The 
  pres- 
  

   ent 
  author 
  has 
  studied 
  the 
  various 
  types 
  of 
  the 
  Diaguita 
  hairdress. 
  

  

  Warriors 
  decorated 
  themselves 
  with 
  feathers, 
  carried 
  shields 
  on 
  the 
  

   forearm, 
  and 
  wore 
  silver 
  or 
  copper 
  bracelets, 
  tupus 
  (pins 
  with 
  wide 
  

  

  