﻿710 
  SOUTH 
  AMERICAN 
  INDIANS 
  [B. 
  A. 
  B. 
  Bull. 
  143 
  

  

  it 
  was 
  probably 
  a 
  modification 
  of 
  the 
  sleeveless 
  shirt 
  to 
  permit 
  greater 
  

   freedom 
  of 
  action 
  on 
  horseback. 
  

  

  As 
  described 
  by 
  Marino 
  de 
  Lovera 
  (1865, 
  p. 
  230), 
  the 
  early 
  Huilliche 
  

   men 
  of 
  the 
  Ancud 
  region 
  wore 
  breeches, 
  shirt, 
  and 
  cape, 
  all 
  of 
  [llama] 
  

   wool. 
  The 
  shirt, 
  like 
  the 
  Mapuche 
  type 
  described 
  by 
  Gdngora 
  

   Marmolejo 
  (1862, 
  p. 
  2) 
  and 
  Gonzalez 
  de 
  Najera 
  (1889, 
  p. 
  39) 
  as 
  "with- 
  

   out 
  sleeves," 
  was 
  presumably 
  the 
  typical 
  Andean 
  rectangular 
  sleeve- 
  

   less 
  shirt. 
  Gonzalez 
  de 
  Najera's 
  description 
  (ibid.) 
  of 
  the 
  short 
  

   breeches 
  as 
  a 
  "pafio 
  revuelto" 
  serving 
  as 
  a 
  "panete" 
  and 
  reaching 
  to 
  

   the 
  midthigh 
  is 
  somewhat 
  suggestive 
  of 
  the 
  later 
  chiripa. 
  According 
  

   to 
  Marcgrav 
  (loc. 
  cit), 
  the 
  breeches 
  reached 
  to 
  the 
  knee. 
  According 
  

   to 
  Brouwer 
  (1892, 
  p. 
  60), 
  the 
  early 
  Chilotans 
  wore 
  breeches 
  that 
  flared 
  

   at 
  the 
  bottom 
  like 
  a 
  sailor's, 
  and 
  a 
  mantle, 
  but 
  no 
  shirt 
  or 
  coat. 
  

  

  Mapuche-Huilliche 
  garments 
  were 
  mostly 
  of 
  woven 
  llama 
  wool. 
  

   The 
  punu, 
  a 
  small 
  apronlike, 
  leather 
  pubic 
  covering, 
  was 
  used 
  by 
  

   hockey-players 
  and 
  transvestites 
  (Bascunan, 
  1863, 
  pp. 
  61, 
  107). 
  

  

  The 
  Huilliche 
  of 
  the 
  Ancud 
  region 
  were 
  wearing 
  pointed 
  woolen 
  

   caps 
  or 
  hoods 
  when 
  first 
  encountered 
  by 
  the 
  Spaniards 
  (Marino 
  de 
  

   Lovera, 
  1865, 
  p. 
  230; 
  Ercilla, 
  canto 
  36, 
  1910, 
  p. 
  579). 
  Elsewhere, 
  

   however, 
  as 
  a 
  general 
  rule, 
  the 
  Mapuche-Huilliche 
  went 
  without 
  hats. 
  

   Both 
  men 
  and 
  women 
  used 
  a 
  woven 
  woolen 
  fillet 
  (tari 
  longo, 
  traru- 
  

   loiyko) 
  to 
  bind 
  the 
  hair, 
  caciques 
  often 
  using 
  a 
  silver 
  band 
  in 
  place 
  of 
  it. 
  

   Warriors 
  frequently 
  wore 
  animal 
  or 
  bird 
  heads 
  or 
  skins 
  on 
  the 
  head. 
  

   The 
  cotton, 
  silk, 
  or 
  woolen 
  square 
  worn 
  like 
  a 
  turban, 
  and 
  the 
  woman's 
  

   beaded 
  headgear, 
  are 
  not 
  reported 
  earlier 
  than 
  the 
  19th 
  century. 
  

  

  The 
  earlier 
  Mapuche-Huilliche 
  ordinarily 
  went 
  barefoot. 
  In 
  the 
  

   mid-17th 
  century, 
  low 
  footgear 
  ("caligae") 
  were 
  being 
  used 
  by 
  men 
  

   on 
  festival 
  occasions 
  (Marcgrav, 
  1648, 
  p. 
  283). 
  By 
  the 
  second 
  half 
  

   of 
  the 
  18th 
  century, 
  natives 
  of 
  rank 
  were 
  using 
  woolen 
  boots 
  and 
  

   leather 
  sandals 
  (Molina, 
  1901, 
  p. 
  148), 
  which 
  later 
  became 
  more 
  

   common. 
  The 
  zumel 
  (shumel), 
  or 
  "bota 
  de 
  potro," 
  made 
  of 
  the 
  hide 
  

   from 
  the 
  leg 
  of 
  horse 
  or 
  cattle, 
  softened 
  and 
  allowed 
  to 
  dry 
  on 
  the 
  foot, 
  

   was 
  introduced, 
  apparently 
  from 
  the 
  Argentine 
  Pampa, 
  in 
  the 
  first 
  

   half 
  of 
  the 
  19th 
  century 
  (de 
  la 
  Cruz, 
  1836, 
  p. 
  33; 
  Smith, 
  1855, 
  pp. 
  

   323-324). 
  It 
  was 
  used 
  as 
  a 
  riding 
  boot, 
  the 
  point 
  of 
  the 
  boot 
  being 
  

   left 
  open 
  to 
  allow 
  the 
  rider 
  to 
  grip 
  the 
  stirrup 
  with 
  his 
  big 
  toe. 
  The 
  

   tamango, 
  pieces 
  of 
  sheepskin 
  or 
  cowhide 
  with 
  the 
  hair 
  side 
  in, 
  lashed 
  

   on 
  the 
  feet 
  and 
  legs 
  for 
  crossing 
  the 
  Andean 
  passes 
  in 
  the 
  snow, 
  was 
  

   used, 
  apparently 
  by 
  Indians, 
  at 
  least 
  at 
  the 
  Uspallata 
  Pass 
  in 
  Picunche 
  

   country 
  (Lenz, 
  1904-10, 
  2:704, 
  899; 
  on 
  the 
  earlier 
  Pehuenche 
  snow- 
  

   shoes, 
  see 
  infra, 
  section 
  on 
  "Pehuenche," 
  p. 
  760). 
  

  

  Hair. 
  — 
  "References 
  in 
  the 
  early 
  sources 
  to 
  coiffure 
  are 
  scattered 
  and 
  

   vague. 
  Brouwer 
  (1892, 
  p. 
  60) 
  found 
  the 
  mainland 
  Huilliche 
  men 
  with 
  

   their 
  hair 
  cut 
  short 
  around 
  the 
  ears. 
  (See 
  also 
  G6ngora 
  Marmolejo, 
  

   1862, 
  p. 
  2, 
  and 
  Marcgrav's 
  woodcut, 
  1648, 
  p. 
  284.) 
  Since 
  at 
  least 
  the 
  

  

  