38 MRULI TO RUBAGA IN UGANDA. 



which we had to go. At last, after a vast amount of persua- 

 sion, we started, and went right into the swamp, which is here 

 nearly two miles broad. At first we were only knee-deep in 

 mud, thick grass, and papyrus, the appearance of which so 

 far from the river surprised me greatly ; but soon the water 

 deepened, and we were quickly up to the neck in it, and that 

 for a long time — longer than we liked. The loads had to be 

 balanced on the head, and great care to be taken to prevent 

 falling, especially as the mud was tenacious like pitch, and 

 stuck to the soles of our feet. Added to this were the burn- 

 ing sun, the gnats, and the bad-smelling exhalations from the 

 swamp — a real African treat ! Step by step the procession 

 moved forward, and, mirabile dictu, this day again no harm 

 befell us. 



The playing of flutes and noise of song celebrated our arrival 

 on terra firma, and after crossing the low hills which dam up 

 the swamp, we plunged again into the banana groves, until a 

 large open space with shady trees bade us rest. The porters, 

 whose unshaken good-humour was again a source of wonder 

 to me, well deserved the huge vessels full of mwe'nge which 

 were quickly requisitioned from the surrounding houses ; and 

 my guides, too, after conducting a sham fight, did not neglect 

 to indulge in the pleasure of a drink. This very straggling 

 place is called Tama. Masses of bananas, a great deal of white 

 maize and red durrah, both ripening, sweet potatoes, and a very 

 large number of colocasias grow here. The latter seem to 

 have run wild in the muddy soil, which suits them well ; at 

 any rate they cover the land for a great distance, while usually 

 they are only found singly, planted round huts. Their tubers 

 are very large, and are pure white. 



The banana plantations are generally very well kept ; but once 

 a year the grass in them is allowed to shoot, and is then pulled 

 up and placed in great bunches around each banana plant, this 

 being the only manure employed. When the rotting is at an 

 end, which very soon takes place, absolutely no blade of grass 

 can be found between the stems, and the grove looks like a 

 huge and very carefully kept garden. There' are in Uganda 

 three kinds of bananas, which are known by the natives through 

 their leaf and stem — KeyJc, with small insipid fruits, used only 



