NEAR KABREGA'S RESIDENCE. 55 



shrubs. We then once more arrived at clearings, where 

 bananas, sweet potatoes, and lubias intermingled, and here and 

 there the green stalks of maize were seen, or the broad leaves of 

 Virginian tobacco. Compounds containing three or four huts 

 lay scattered throughout the cultivated land. They were hemi- 

 spherical, and their grass roofs stretched down to the ground all 

 round, except where a porch was formed over the door. The 

 frames were made of light reed wickerwork and supported by 

 numerous poles. Inside, the huts were not exactly inviting ; 

 they were divided into two compartments, the floors of which 

 were covered with hay, and infested by innumerable mice, cock- 

 roaches, crickets, and fleas. Household utensils were not 

 numerous, for the inhabitants had fled before us, taking all. 

 their treasures with them. 



We halted at Kitongali, in one of these clearings, where 

 I was fortunate enough to obtain three huts for myself, my 

 people, and my belongings. Here I had the pleasure of a visit 

 from the village chief, a good-looking young man, whose father 

 is Kabrega's confidant. He made quite an imposing figure, 

 being clad in thin white skins, over which a reddish- brown 

 mhugu hung like a toga ; his servant bore after him a 

 double-barrelled sporting-gun. The usual presents having 

 been exchanged, he sent a messenger to Kabrega to apprise 

 him of my approach, for the next day we expected to reach 

 our destination. If, however, I understand African ceremonials 

 rightly, many a day will still pass before I reach Kabrega's, 

 although we are quite near to his residence. It is always 

 uncomfortable to travel during the rainy season, because you 

 are never master of the situation, which, indeed, leaving the 

 rain out of question, is rarely the case. From midnight the 

 thunder rolled on all sides, thick fog enveloped the country, 

 and it rained as if it were absolutely necessary for the clouds to 

 rid themselves of their whole contents that day. Of course, it 

 was no good thinking of further progress in such weather ; and 

 to make matters worse, my hut was not water-tight. I had 

 seen • none of my people that day, for, on account of the 

 rain, and possibly also of hunger — for meat does not satisfy 

 them, and corn could not be obtained — they were having a 

 long sleep. 



