ARRIVAL AT KABREGA'S. 59 



Kyai keeping to our right, till at length we left the moun- 

 tainous defile, entering again into high grass and reeds, and 

 pausing at last to rest by a small brook with clear bubbling 

 water, which flowed over mica slabs and tasted strongly of 

 iron. Grey cows, possessing neither horns nor humps, stood 

 in the water (they destroy the horns of the cattle here as 

 soon as they commence to grow, by cauterising them with a 

 red-hot iron, in order to enable them to pass with greater 

 ease through the tall grass and the jungle). All the houses lay 

 at a distance from the road. Probably in order to impress the 

 stranger with the immense size of the land, and therefore with 

 the greatness of its ruler, he is led round about for days through 

 the high grass, when the direct route would hardly occupy three 

 marching hours. The country is said to be well peopled. 



Soon after crossing the small kJwr, we found ourselves again 

 between rows of mountains, several summits of which may 

 attain an altitude of from 1500 to 2000 feet above the general 

 elevation of the country, which is probably as much as 4000 feet. 

 Then followed cultivated fields, with many miniature votive 

 huts, erected with the idea of obtaining a good harvest. Giant 

 reeds came next, and at last the mountains opened out, and 

 before us lay Mpara-Nyamoga, Kabrega's headquarters, Unyoro's 

 capital. The huts which had been prepared for me lay to the 

 left of the road, upon a hill, above which high mountains 

 towered. The spot is about ten minutes distant from the great 

 compound of huts which comprises the king's residence, and 

 which, with another compound lying near it, forms the village. 

 Our goods were hardly under shelter when the rain began to 

 pour and the thunder to roll. Late in the evening Katagrua, 

 Kabrega's prime minister, once a companion of Baker's, came 

 to visit me and to bring me his master's greetings. Kabrega 

 had intended to receive me immediately, but was prevented 

 doing so on account of the rain. For the same reason it had 

 been impossible for him to gather together for me any kind of 

 present, and therefore he begged me to excuse it. I simply 

 remarked that I was very much obliged to his sovereign, but 

 that I was not come in order to receive presents. Makango 

 Bkamba, whom I had sent with my greetings to the king, 

 brought me the promise of an audience to-morrow. 



