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II. 



BETWEEN THE VICTORIA AND THE ALBERT 



LAKES. 



i. A Visit to the Victoria Lake. 

 (February 13, 1878.) 



LANDSCAPE SCENERY — LUXURIANCE OF VEGETATION — BODIES OF THE 

 EXECUTED ON THE SHORES OF THE LAKE — THE MURCHISON CREEK 

 — BOATBUILDING. 



After considerable pressure King Mtesa had at last granted 

 me permission to make an excursion to the lake. It was im- 

 portant to set out for our destination as soon as possible, so as 

 to forestall the childish whims of the ruler, in case he changed 

 his mind and forbade my leaving ; a small present to the guide 

 assigned to me happily induced him to be remarkably ob- 

 liging, and we were thus able to set off immediately. 



The morning sun was shining dimly through dull clouds ; 

 a grey mist was hanging over the country far and wide, above 

 which the ridges of scattered hills appeared like islands, and 

 conspicuous among them was the long range of the table-shaped 

 mountain Mtundwe. We passed Mtesa's palace and descended 

 into a marshy plain, the passage through which was facilitated 

 by a very primitive dyke, and two still more primitive bridges, 

 made of small logs of wood. On all the hills which we subse- 

 quently passed people were industriously employed, new fields 

 and plantations were springing into existence, and bonfires of 

 plucked-up grass sent forth clouds of smoke and the smell 

 of burning. The women were busy digging in the fields, 

 planting sweet potatoes or plucking up the grass ; the men 

 were building houses or enlarging and clearing the road, which 



