May, 1922.] THE ORCHID REVIEW. 131 
IMPORTING ORCHIDS FROM ENGLAND TO AUSTRALIA. 
By ARTHUR YATES, SYDNEY, N.S.W. 
HE following notes of my experience during the past season, as well as 
previous years, in importing Orchids from England may be of interest 
to others similarly situated at a distance from the chief source of supply. 
Most varieties of Orchids travel safely so long as they are shipped when 
in the right state of growth, are properly prepared before being packed, 
and if, on arrival, they are very gradually accustomed to normal conditions. 
Unfortunately the English trade-grower does not always realise the tremen- 
dous strain on a plant deprived of light, moisture, and air for a period of six or 
eight weeks, and he sometimes supplies young seedling plants too small to 
stand the journey, or he sends plants with new growths too far advanced to 
carry safely. My experience goes to show that if new growths are just 
showing when the plants are packed, they carry quite well, and continue to 
grow on arrival. 
I have lately landed two consignments of Cymbidiums. They were all 
sturdy vigorous plants when packed. In the one case the new growths 
were well advanced, with several leaves up to twelve inches long; most of 
these new growths perished in transit. In the other case, the new growths 
were just showing, and although some of them had bleached shoots up to 
three inches long on arrival, they all survived the journey and continued as 
vigorous growths. In both instances most of the old leaves died in transit 
but this would not be a serious matter if the leads were saved, as Cym- 
bidiums do particularly well in the open air in Sydney. Nearly all these 
plants will recover, but the damage sustained were the leads are gone will 
probably take them an extra year to reach the flowering stage. 
On unpacking newly-imported plants, I place them in a cool, — 
well-ventilated greenhouse with a humid atmosphere, and carefully shade 
them with newspapers from any direct rays of the sun. No water is given 
for three or four days, and then only a light spraying. But after about a 
week or ten days I give them a more liberal supply, keeping them on the 
dry side till the bulbs become plump and the plants show signs of growth 
and root action. Under this treatment the plants, although they at first 
drop a few leaves, soon recover their normal condition. The leaves, before 
dropping turn yellow at the points. I find that in a few instances a portion 
Of the leaf can be saved by cutting it across well below the yeliow stain and 
dressing the cut with air-slaked lime. However, when a leaf commences 
to decay it is usually difficult to stop it. 
A more serious form of decay is that of the main root stem at the base 
of the pseudobulbs; this turns black, commencing at the back and gradually 
Spreading towards the lead and up the pseudobulbs. The only remedy is a 
