go THE ORCHID REVIEW. [MakcH, 1914. 
THE AMATEUR’S COLLECTION. 
By C. ALWYN HARRISON. 
OR amateur, as well as for professional growers this month is most 
f trying, for the days become brighter and warmer, thus necessitating 
increased ventilation, yet cold winds are very prevalent, and hence too — 
much air cannot be given. Much must therefore be left to the good 
judgment of the cultivator, but a few general hints can be given. The 
bottom ventilators of the Intermediate house can usually be opened about 
ten a.m., if the thermometer is above 63° Fahr., but if a cold and biting — 
‘wind is blowing those on the leeward side of the house must only be 
opened. If the sun is bright, a little top air can usually be admitted with 
‘safety about the middle of the day, but the ventilators should be closed as 
soon as the thermometer registers below 65° Fahr. In ventilating houses 
‘correctly, the main secret of success is to admit enough air to keep the — 
internal atmosphere fresh and buoyant, and to assist in maintaining as far : 
as is possible a regular and even temperature. 
For this and the following month a temperature of 60° to 65° Fahr. by 
‘day and 58° to 63° Fahr. by night should be regarded as the correct — 
‘degrees of warmth to be maintained by fire heat, though in the day time, 
with sun, the thermometer will probably run up to 70°. With this — 
increased amount of warmth damping down must be performed twice daily, — 
‘in the morning and again about 4.30 in the afternoon, and the growing and 
flowering plants will probably need likewise a slight increase in respect t 
‘the amount of water afforded. 
Any Cypripediums not yet potted, if in need of it, can now be — 
overhauled, as advised at page 60, a light shading, however, being given to — 
‘enable them to start more quickly in their new soil. 
Some of the winter-flowing Cattleyas, such as Percivaliana, Triane a” 
-any of the numerous hybrids can now be overhauled, and this operation ; 
must be carefully performed. Remove each plant from the old pot, shake — 
-off crocks and soil, then cut cleanly away all dead roots and back bulbs, 
leaving three only to support each lead. Then fill a fresh pot half full of © 
‘clean broken crocks and on these set the plant, rather to one side, so as to 
allow room for the new growth. Then fill up to within half-an-inch of the — 
rim of the pot with soil, pressing it round the roots firmly, and being | 
‘cautious not to bury the rhizome of the plant. This should be level with the 
‘pot’s rim. On the surface a few living heads of sphagnum moss can be 
lightly inserted, but I am not an advocate of placing a layer of moss all = 
over the soil, as this prevents one ascertaining at a glance in what — 
‘condition the compost is, and to this cause can be attributed many of the — 
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