Nov.-DEc., 1919.] THE ORCHID REVIEW. I9f 
fine autumn and winter-blooming hybrids (including Leliocattleyas and 
Brassocattleyas) there is no difficulty in maintaining a display of their 
beautiful flowers. The remarks previously made regarding their culture ~ 
should be closely followed during the present month, and any that are in 
need of new material may still be taken in hand, if the old material is 
picked out, and the new material is kept on the dry side until the new roots 
have taken hold of it. 
SOPHROCATTLEYAS and other Sophronitis hybrids may be treated like 
Leliocattleyas. Some individual varieties require special treatment to get 
the best out of them, some thriving much better under warmer conditions 
than others. During this sunless time of the year, all should be stood well 
to the glass so that they may receive the maximum amount of light. 
Mexican Lacias delight in more sunlight than most Orchids, and 
during their growing season should only be given sufficient shade to prevent 
scorching during the hottest part of the day. Fresh air should be admitted 
to them whenever possible. The early varieties will now be opening their 
flowers; others are later, and by judiciously manipulating them the 
blooming period may be considerably extended where they are grown in , 
sufficient quantities. L. autumnalis and its chaste variety alba, with L- 
albida and L. furfuracea, will also be in bloom. These like to be kept 
slightly cooler whilst making their growth, as also does the refractory L. 
majalis, which should always enjoy a light position. When their flowering 
period is passed, give'the plants a good rest, allowing only sufficient water 
to keep the plants from shrivelling. Pot firmly, as soon as young roots are 
about to push, in good rough osmunda or other fibre. A temperature of 
about 55° F. by night, and a comparatively dry atmosphere should be 
aimed at during the winter months. 
Vanpas.—V. ccerulea, for the most part, will have passed the flowering 
stage, and should be rested in a temperature of about 60° F., paying strict 
attention to the ventilation and the atmospheric condition of the house. 
Very little water at the roots will be needed, only sufficient to keep the 
plants from shrivelling. Vandas of the tricolor and suavis group may be 
repotted, if they have lost their leaves and become leggy, or are in need of 
new rooting material. This operation should only be performed when real 
necessity arises, as they resent root disturbance at any time. Live sphagnum: 
moss pressed firmly among the roots makes a suitable compost, and 
broken crocks may be added to make the whole porous. Ample drainage 
is necessary, and each stem should be made secure, and the moss kept alive 
by frequent sprinkling with water whenever it becomes dry. The plants 
should be stood on a damp bottom, and a temperature of 60° to 65° F. 
maintained. V. teres, having now completed its growth, and the tips of 
the roots. being sealed over, should be allowed a long season of rest, 
