366 THE ORCHID REVIEW. 
See that the glass is well cleaned from dirt, both inside and out, so that 
all the available light is obtained, and also that the plants are staged so 
that each one, whether large or small, may have its due share of the same. 
About 3 feet away from the roof-glass should be the farthest distance 
to stage a plant, whilst care must also be taken not to get them too close at 
this season, or injury from cold may occur; at least 1 foot from the glass 
should therefore be allowed for safety. If Orchids are grown in company 
with other warm greenhouse plants—either flowering or foliage (and there 
is no reason why that should not be)—see that the Orchids do not suffer at 
the expense of the others. This:does occur when the grower has a biased 
mind, loving the one—or, perhaps I might say, understanding the one— 
more than the other. I sometimes come across Orchids placed down on 
the stage, with no attempt whatever made to raise them nearer the light 
for the winter months, whilst, to make matters worse and still darker, above 
them are towering the leaves or branches of some specimen Croton, Fern, 
or other plant. This, I may say, is not giving the Orchid a fair chance. 
Cattleya Warneri is an early, summer-blooming species, and naturally 
starts to push forth new growth at this season. Any attempt to keep it 
back by drought or cold will end in failure. It should not, however, be 
given great heat, nor much water, as both are now undesirable. It should 
simply occupy the warmest end of the Cattleya house, having just 
sufficient moisture at the root to enable it to move slowly along. I always 
prefer baskets for this species, guiding the course of the new growth, if 
possible, so as not to grow over the sides; one basket then does for many 
years without root disturbance. Other Cattleyas or Lelias which naturally 
grow at this season, like L. purpurata and L. crispa, should likewise have 
the warmest end of the house, such little differences in treatment being all 
required. Cattleya Gaskelliana, having now had a good rest, will show 
signs of activity, and consequently should be slightly more encouraged. 
The Dendrobium season commences this month with a few of the earliest 
kinds. Some few are already in flower, principally D. moniliforme, D. X 
Cassiope, D. x endocharis, the earliest matured and rested plants of D. 
aureum, D. nobile, D. xX Leechianum, and some few others. For the 
majority it is still too early, and they should: be kept back until February 
and March. All that have been brought on to flower at an earlier date must 
still be kept back in an Intermediate temperature, and not by any means 
pushed on in a hotter house until the proper season arrives, or they will 
assuredly lose their robust health and become weaklings. If good quality 
blooms are required, Dendrobiums must not be forced to open quickly in 
heat, but allowed to come on slowly in Intermediate temperature. 
Lelia anceps and its varieties are now at their best, and will last in 
bloom throughout the present month. This species is therefore invaluable 
