1832.] Lieut. A. Burnes and Dr. Gerard. 143 



that they were really beyond the boundary of Hindustan. Our travellers 

 prepared themselves now for the assumption of the native dress, and 

 began gradually to accustom themselves to the adoption of oriental 

 manners and customs. This was done to secure them from attracting 

 notice, and thus ensuring their personal safety, and a free inter- 

 course with the people of the countries through which they might 

 pass. Dr. Gerard writes : " After leaving Lahore, we began to assume 

 the native costume, and divest ourselves of the cumbrances and com- 

 forts of civilized life, and we are now (Atok, 16th March,) in every 

 respect in a suitable condition to mingle with the Afghans, and even to 

 encounter robbers. Our poverty will however protect us ; our beards are 

 growing, and our faces are getting black from the sun's ardour. Our 

 habits cannot be too coarse to correspond with our vagrant character. 

 I wish other parts of us besides our face would change colour, as we are 

 liable to be betrayed by our awkward attitudes. Our shirts stick close 

 to our backs, as we cannot afford their renewal ; in fact our clothes are 

 still too good, and the sooner they become greasy the better. Two 

 mules carry all our baggage and servants : our beds are upon our horse 

 rolled up like a pedlar's pack. By and bye we shall mess with our 

 servants, of whom we are already a counterpart ; and when we say our 

 prayers five times a day, and use our fingers for chopsticks, we shall 

 pass on unnoticed. We have parted with every superfluity ; it was 

 with regret however that I gave up two of my spare barometer 

 tubes : — the instrument still remains, and if I am so fortunate as to 

 get an observation on the Hindu hush, I shall be satisfied ; in case 

 of fracture, our thermometers will still give approximate altitudes." 

 Having reached the Atok, they were welcomed by Hari 

 Sinh, whom they found encamped in the plain of the Indus • they 

 paid him a visit in his tents, which brought back the scenes 

 of Lahore grandeur. Hari Sinh having forded the river the pre- 

 vious day, they were determined to try the same experiment, and 

 accordingly proceeded on elephants with him; but the enterprize 

 cost them the sacrifice of a man and two horses ; the people strug- 

 gled, and losing the ford, were swept down by the rapid stream : 

 seven sawars lost their footing, but all were recovered, except one. 

 Their elephant rolled deeply, but never had occasion to swim ; the 

 next branch of the river was more difficult, but they prevented 

 the horsemen following them ; in recrossing, they kept in close order, 

 and repelled by this means the impetuosity of the current. This stream 

 has been frequently forded by the armies of the Sikhs in latter times 

 with little or no loss of lives. Our correspondent says, that "Atok has 



