1834.] • Persia, and Mesopotamia. 275 



were to pursue our journey on the morning On a height near a de- 

 file, an old stone fortress, black with time, and the shadows of the 

 night, stood in mournful solitude ; a well chosen position to have 

 commanded the pass in earlier ages. At its base is a small Cossack 

 station, and a detachment of infantry. Several massive fragments of 

 fallen masonry added to the dark solemnity of the scene. 



At nine next morning, we ascended the mountains, which were 

 sufficiently rugged, though not of the most formidable altitude. The 

 road to the top was scarcely wide enough to admit a caleche to pass, 

 and very rough all the way. We then descended the opposite side, by 

 a track of much the same difficulty ; but it gradually opened to our 

 view a valley, which lay at the foot of some rich-looking hills, tra- 

 versed by a stream winding its fertilizing way to the north-east. In the 

 middle of this valley some striking remains of a strong fortress still 

 exist. After crossing the dry bed of a river, we reached Tayaz, where 

 we found warm and ample quarters. A supper consisting of eggs, 

 milk, butter, and honey, was set before us. This latter luxury I might 

 have anticipated from the propitious aspect of the country for maintain- 

 ing colonies of bees ; and I understood it to be an article of great profit to 

 the inhabitants. Indeed, every thing spoke the fertility of the soil, and 

 the hospitality of the people. They possess numerous herds of cattle, 

 with plenty of wheat, barley, and millet. 



At seven o'clock in the morning, we again sat forward on our journey, 

 and halted at Zegaum, about three leagues distant. The road was un- 

 usually stony ; and the river Algat was seen at a short distance. We 

 often met caravans of mules laden with merchandize. The bales were 

 placed in a right line, and the mules, when unladen, were left to them- 

 selves, and straying in every direction in quest of pasture. The mer- 

 chandize was heaped up in small tents, guarded by one or two men. 

 The right in the soil begins now to be marked out in a particular 

 manner. Vast extents of land, enclosed with artificial fences, in which 

 herds of oxen and cows fed, sufficiently indicate a right of property. 

 The country, nevertheless, is for the most part uncultivated, and few 

 traces of agriculture appear. We passed some Georgians nearly 

 naked, and loaded like beasts of burden. Such labourers are very 

 rare, because the Georgians are in general lazy. A traveller, while 

 passing through these solitudes, and beholding the state of abandon- 

 ment in which the virgin and fertile soil is left, cannot but feel indig- 

 nation against its governors. The tracts where the silver mines were 

 formerly worked lay due west from hence, the rocks which form them 

 are of a yellowish hue. Indeed, the whole of this part of Georgia is 

 rich in ores of different kinds, and particularly in copper. Leaving 



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