276 Journal of a Tour through Georgia, [June, 



these vestiges of exhausted wealth on our right, we crossed the Algat 

 through a deep and rapid ford. On gaining the shore we rode on for 

 Borsoom, distant ahout four leagues. The road we traversed was 

 horribly bad, and we often sank deep into the mud. On passing the 

 verge of a precipice, it was necessary to shut our eyes that we might 

 not be terrified by beholding danger in its most frightful aspect. Here 

 we were forced to trust entirely to the experience of our mules, which 

 are wonderfully sagacious in selecting paths ; but notwithstanding their 

 sagacity, they sometimes sank to the belly in holes of mud. 



Our road continued south-east over trackless snow*, through narrow 

 glens, and occasionally over low hills, without a tree or shrub. At 

 about a league distance from Ganja that town is discovered ; which, 

 with its numerous and extensive gardens, presents a most agreeable 

 coup d'ceil. It is situated in a wide-spreading plain, wherein many vil- 

 lages are scattered. Agriculture has not made great progress here, 

 and this plain, which in Europe would present a luxuriant cultivation, 

 exhibits but few traces of culture ; but the natural fertility of the 

 soil gives rise to an abundant vegetation, consisting of useless plants. 

 Ganja, or Elizabeth Pol, as it is called by the Russians, is the first 

 place of any note on approaching Persia from the north-west : it is built 

 upon a broad mountain torrent, (over which is a ruinous brick bridge 

 of six arches,) beneath the Aligez mountains, which divide the beautiful 

 province of Karabagh* from that of Irivan. I have observed that the 

 approach to the town wears an imposing appearance, surrounded with 

 inclosures, and resembling an oasis in the desert. As we entered, 

 however, this delusive aspect vanished, and we found ourselves passing 

 through a large maze of utter ruins, abandoned suburbs, and crumbling 

 walls — these conceal the houses from the eve of a traveller, until he 

 passes through a paltry bazar that extends for some hundred yards, 

 partially occupied by shops of the most needful trades, and very scan- 

 tily supplied. Every thing breathes of poverty and oppression : in fact, 

 with the exception of the house of the Russian commandant, the habi- 

 tations are deplorable in the extreme, and all is totally at variance with 

 English habits, customs, and comforts. A habitation was assigned us 

 by the Russian General, who was acting as Mehmandar to the Persian 

 Prince, and the best mat was spread on the floor, in the midst of which 

 a fire burnt bright and cheerfully, while its Mussulman inmates pre- 

 pared a good supper of fowls and eggs, followed by coffee, and the 

 chibouque. We found the luxuries of Tiflis had not at all impaired 

 our relish of this simple and friendly reception. Our servant, who 



* The appellative Karabagh signifies in the Turkish language " the blaclf 

 garden ;" implying the richness ar.d fertility of the whole district. 



