462 Journal of a Tour through Georgia, %c. [Sept. 



the white unbroken surface, till it terminated in the horizon. This 

 stream takes its rise at the village of Uzumdil, and Hows throughout 

 the district. In an hour after leaving the town of Ahar we stopt at a 

 poor hamlet to quench our thirst. During the whole journey I suffered 

 exceedingly, and by eating snow found that my lips were pai'ched and 

 burnt the more. In fact my mouth became more and more inflamed, 

 my desire for drink fearfully augmented, and a lassitude crept over me 

 which water alone could dissipate. The most essential article in our 

 equipment was a small pot, in which we melted and boiled the snow 

 water. This last is the most necessary part of the process ; for if the 

 snow is merely melted, the water has a smoked and disagreeably bitter 

 taste ; but if the water is allowed to boil, and then cooled by throw- 

 ing in plenty of snow, it becomes most refreshing and delightful to the 

 taste, and perfectly satisfies the thirsty and harassed traveller. 



We traversed the plain in a westerly direction still, and commenced 

 the ascent of an abrupt mountain, composed of schistus and pudding 

 stone. Upon our left appeared the lofty Savalan, and although the 

 sun's last beams had quitted our airy position, they still illumined the 

 mount. 



" It stood before us 

 A mount of snow fretted with golden pinnacles." 

 On descending the south-eastern face of the mountain, we obtained 

 an extensive view of the valley below, whose romantic scenery I had 

 not seen equalled in the stupendous regions of the Caucasus. At 

 nightfall we reached a village on an eminence called Shehruk, and 

 halted for the night. A crowd of women and young children collected 

 about us, and vied with each other in proffering their assistance, some 

 ran off for sour milk, and others to prepare bread and cheese. These 

 lively females wore no veils, and their plumpness was well set off by 

 large turbans, loose jackets, and capacious trousers. They all spoke 

 the Turkish language, and appeared disappointed on finding that we 

 were unable to converse together. Our next evening's halt was made 

 at Khojah, a small village seated on a hill, and beside a salt stream. 

 Our quarters at this place were most wretched, and to complete our 

 misery, the fleas which had always been extremely troublesome were 

 here as voracious as bull-dogs. We discovered nothing which pre- 

 vented their biting the exposed part of the body, though the natives 

 spoke of a particular grass which drove them away. The natives of the 

 country suffer in some degree from them, but their flesh does not swell 

 much. Nothing will keep them at bay, but smoke from wood-fires, 

 nor will this do unless we completely envelope ourselves in the midst 

 of it, which would nearly cause suffocation or blindness. They are 



