14 Continuation of the Route of Lieut. Burnes [Jan. 
Thus terminated our intimacy and connexion with the man, to whose 
care and protection we had been consigned, by the brother of Dost 
Muhammed Khan, for our safety to Bokhara; we never spoke again. 
The Syud, Mr. Conolly’s friend, whom we met at Péshawar, and whose 
grateful feelings for the attention and liberality of the Governor General 
had interested him in our journey, to the extent of promising to protect 
and conduct us to Bokhara, we left at Kabul, ill, and otherwise too much 
engaged in his own affairs, to assist us in any way. Thus deprived of 
the dependence we had in these people, and without any introductory 
letter to the king of Bokhara, (the Nazir having lost or wilfully de- 
stroyed it,) we had to make the best of our way unassisted. 
On the road to Balkh, we turned aside to see poor Trebeck’s grave. 
Muhammedan bigotry had yielded so far, as to permit his remains to be 
deposited within an enclosure or garden: a mulberry tree sheds its fruit 
over the spot. We had heard this young man spoken of every where 
with the highest eulogies, and it was a satisfaction to us to have visited 
his lone sepulchre. We wished to leave some record of the spot, but 
although it is possible to get a slab-stone here for his and Moorcroft’s 
graves, it is doubtful how such a memorial would be respected, unless 
we ourselves had witnessed its erection. 
On entering Balkh, we were met by two custom-house officers, jolly 
fellows, and one of them a Tarkoman; but from the nature of their 
employment, rather boisterous and abrupt: they stopped our horses, 
bade us dismount, and said we must be searched. A little surprised, we 
kept our seats, and assured them we were not merchants. ‘‘ We must 
see what is in those saddle bags,” said they. Burnes then dismounted, 
and the Turkoman began an examination of his person, passing his 
hand over his watch—what have we got here? Ah “ Saat,” that is a 
useful article to travellers—very well, have you got nothing else, no tillas 
(gold coin), and before Burnes could reply, he with much good humour 
said, Come, come, you know as well as I do, that people cannot travel 
without money ; now, how many have you? Twenty, said Burnes, offering 
to untie them fromhis waist. Don’t trouble yourself; there is no occasion, 
Your word is everything, ! am satisfied; and pointing to me, (I had not 
dismounted, and was thinking what to say,) what has your companion ?— 
thesame. Thank you, replied the Tarkoman, you are gentlemen. I wish 
every one was as ready in their answers, they would save themselves 
and me much unnecessary and awkward trouble. Your names, said 
he. Sikandar Armeni and Gerard (with the French pronunciation). The 
tax upon our money wasatenth. Hinds pay atwentieth; and Muham- 
medans, a fortieth. We had no tillas except those tied about us; but 
