20 Continuation of the Route of Lieut. A. Burnes [Jan. 
who I say are very miserable, criminal, savage, and unmerciful men 
indeed.” 
At this place a conspiracy was attempted to be formed against us by 
a Persian of our kafila, a man of consummate address and knavery, 
and rumours were afloat that the king of Bokhara had interdicted our 
entering his capital; but the extravagance of the plot almost betrayed 
its falsehood: however, considering the influence and conduct of the 
Nazir, who was the bosom companion of the Persian, and with no other 
voucher of our character but our passports, we did not like the circum- 
stances, though they scarcely made us uneasy. The remaining four 
marches to Bokhara had less of the desert in them ; the undulations 
continued ; also sand and salt-water. Sometimes the true and unlimited 
horizon was spread before the eye; at last, on the 27th of June, we ar- 
rived inthis fine city, which had a few months before appeared so remote 
and uncertain. I have written so much that you must not at present ex- 
pect any account of this ancient place. The transit of letters from this is 
very uncertain, and to give them a chance of safety from the Allemans 
(robbers), and even the Khybaris near Péshawar, we must fold them in 
the native fashion. The usages of the Muhammedan government are 
here extremely strict, and the precepts of their religion are fulfilled with 
awful rigor; we are not likely to come under any of the penalties, ex- 
cept, indeed, we are seen drunk in the streets, or smoking publicly, nei- 
ther of which there is any chance of; but we might certainly have com- 
mitted ourselves in regard to dress, which for all infidels is strictly 
defined and peremptorily imposed, and if we are naturally obnoxious to 
their sight, our dress adds to the spectacle. A black cap on our head 
and a rope round our waist, are particularly interesting; for we have 
only to pull the cap over our face and put the rope about our neck, to 
make us really a spectacle! We are allowed to reside in a private house 
after some little remonstrance; a public sérai is our proper dwelling 
place. We cannot ride within the walls of the city, and must push our 
way through the densely-peopled streets, which detracts considerably 
from our interest in the scenes of the bazar, and in our walks in an 
atmosphere so warm and dusty. Moorcroft was permitted to ride, but 
he was in character, and brought presents for the king and his courtiers; 
but this privilege was only granted on condition that his Muhammedan 
syces should accompany him mounted, as they could not be seen on 
foot attending an infidel on horseback. We have no character at all to 
support, except it is that of faqirs or beggars (not religious mendi- 
cants). The garments of all other unbelievers are similar to those in 
which we are accoutred, such as Hindis, Armenians, and Jews, and 
