1837.] Lodiana to Mithankot by the Satlaj river. 203 



one arch built of burnt bricks conducts over an insignificant moat to 

 the Multdn gate by which we entered the city. On the day of our 

 visit to the Nawab, the tops of the houses in the streets were crowded 

 with spectators, who observed a profound silence as we passed : this 

 was so remarkable that I cannot but think particular orders must 

 have been given on the subject, as the same circumstances attracted 

 the notice of the Honorable M. Elphinstone and his party on their 

 passage through Bahdwalpur in their Mission to Cdbul. We passed 

 through a long narrow street which forms the principal bazar, and it 

 appeared well inhabited ; the other parts of the town betray a decreas- 

 ing population. Many houses are empty and in ruins. It now con- 

 tains 2,025 shops of all descriptions. The number of its inhabitants 

 may be estimated at 20,000. The second Bahawal Khan always 

 spent some months of the year at this place, but since his death it 

 has been quite deserted by the court, and other causes have not been 

 wanting to account for its diminished importance. Before the Nawab 

 relinquished his territory on the opposite side of the river, the greatest 

 portion of his revenue, which he receives in kind, was collected here, 

 as also the indigo and rice for exportation. This is no longer the case, 

 and the trade of Afghanistan with Central India, to which it chiefly 

 owed its flourishing condition, has both fallen off in quantity, and no 

 longer pursues so exclusively as formerly the route by Bahdwalpur. 

 The decreasing income of the present Nawab and his father has 

 compelled them to levy arbitrary contributions from the merchants, 

 who have deserted the place in consequence. The Amrilsar, Shikdr- 

 pur and Mdrwdr mercantile houses have still their agents here, but 

 comparatively little business is transacted between them. A'ga Raffi, 

 a Jew, who had formerly a house at Derd Ghdzi Khdn, and is connect- 

 ed with the Jews of Bokhdra and Kaub Chand Shikdrpuri, are the 

 most wealthy merchants at the place. Bahdwalpur still maintains its 

 celebrity for the manufacture of silk cloth or lungis and gulbadans, 

 which latter are of a superior texture, and more lasting than those of 

 Amritsar or Benares. The quantity exported is not very great, and 

 chiefly to Sindh. Rifle barrels are also made of very superior work- 

 manship both at Khairpur, Bahdwalpur and Khdnpur, but the hand- 

 somest are made only to order, and to be sent in presents to Sindh, 

 Lahdr and other places. 



The inhabitants of Bahdwalpur and of the few other towns in the 



Bahdwalpur territory, are chiefly Hindus, and these in appearance the 



very outcasts of their race, dirty, squalid and miserable. Though 



they are tolerated in the practice of their religion, and have a high 



2 d 2 



